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| WINTER PROJECT | Rate Topic |
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| Posted: Mon Sep 20th, 2021 02:37 pm |
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1st Post |
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Todd Armentrout Guest
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Hello all. I was hoping for some guidance. I still consider myself a beginner. Like many I am curious about the age of this old GE although I think I have an idea. More importantly, and to the point, I am looking for current guidance. Originally I thought this to be DC. It does have a commutator and brushes. I am on the fence though. Incase my photo does not post the tag reads: TYPE/DO FORM/AD1 SPEC/ 2 720 78 1 CAT/60559 VOLTS/110 CYCLES/D0 Interestingly the blades are brass plated. The base metal is non ferrous. Any guidance is greatly appreciated. I will post more photos if this one posts as it should. Attached Image (viewed 1392 times):
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| Posted: Mon Sep 20th, 2021 02:42 pm |
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2nd Post |
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Todd Armentrout Guest
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photos of the tag Attached Image (viewed 1395 times):
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| Posted: Mon Sep 20th, 2021 02:43 pm |
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3rd Post |
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Todd Armentrout Guest
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another photo of the tag Attached Image (viewed 1203 times):
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| Posted: Mon Sep 20th, 2021 02:44 pm |
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4th Post |
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Todd Armentrout Guest
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side view Attached Image (viewed 1389 times):
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| Posted: Mon Sep 20th, 2021 02:45 pm |
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5th Post |
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Todd Armentrout Guest
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blade Attached Image (viewed 1283 times):
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| Posted: Mon Sep 20th, 2021 07:57 pm |
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6th Post |
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Todd Armentrout Guest
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So I guess my question is this AC or DC? Any thoughts?
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| Posted: Wed Sep 22nd, 2021 12:44 pm |
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7th Post |
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Todd Armentrout Guest
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Anybody?
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| Posted: Wed Sep 22nd, 2021 12:53 pm |
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8th Post |
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Patrick Ray AFCA Member 
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I'm not much of a GE guy, and maybe someone that knows GE fans better can chime in. But it does appear you have a DC power fan. I haven't seen a fan of your style with the brushes NOT be a DC power fan. Looks like you have a good project fan! Would be great to see it brought back to its original glory. Curious if the CYCLES should read "DC" and not "D0".
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| Posted: Wed Sep 22nd, 2021 01:19 pm |
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9th Post |
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James Henderson AFCA Member
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It is 110V DC. You will need to place a bridge rectifier in line to run it.
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| Posted: Wed Sep 22nd, 2021 07:05 pm |
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10th Post |
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Todd Armentrout Guest
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opened up Attached Image (viewed 1279 times):
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| Posted: Wed Sep 22nd, 2021 07:14 pm |
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11th Post |
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Todd Armentrout Guest
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another one Attached Image (viewed 1181 times):
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| Posted: Wed Sep 22nd, 2021 07:18 pm |
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12th Post |
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Todd Armentrout Guest
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commutator Attached Image (viewed 1267 times):
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| Posted: Wed Sep 22nd, 2021 07:24 pm |
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13th Post |
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Todd Armentrout Guest
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under the hood Attached Image (viewed 1272 times):
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| Posted: Wed Sep 22nd, 2021 07:51 pm |
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14th Post |
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Todd Armentrout Guest
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Patrick Ray wrote: I'm not much of a GE guy, and maybe someone that knows GE fans better can chime in. But it does appear you have a DC power fan. I haven't seen a fan of your style with the brushes NOT be a DC power fan. Looks like you have a good project fan! Would be great to see it brought back to its original glory.looking a bit closer under a cheap microscope it appears to possibly be a victim of poorly detailed stamping, etching or whatever the process. What do you think? Attached Image (viewed 1256 times):
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| Posted: Wed Sep 22nd, 2021 08:26 pm |
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15th Post |
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Todd Armentrout Guest
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James Henderson wrote: It is 110V DC. You will need to place a bridge rectifier in line to run it.Not to spark a debate but, since electrical engineering is not necessarily my area of expertise, would using some sort of corded transformer be safe? Could such a thing even be had? I have only dabbled in cosmetically salvaging a few AC motored, older shop tools. Walker Turner, Boice Crane, etc.
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| Posted: Thu Sep 23rd, 2021 12:31 pm |
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16th Post |
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Patrick Ray AFCA Member
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The way the switch is set up (with the tower wrapped in wire) that is a DC model. And good catch with the stamping denoting it is a DC model.
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| Posted: Thu Sep 23rd, 2021 01:38 pm |
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17th Post |
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Thomas Peters AFCA Member
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In the ninth post, "bridge rectifier" is mentioned. Search that term here in the forums. It has been discussed previously. There will be both suggestions of which one to buy, and how to wire it up. Good luck!
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| Posted: Thu Sep 23rd, 2021 02:29 pm |
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18th Post |
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Todd Armentrout Guest
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Thank you vey much for your reply. I have found assistance quite lacking locally. Maybe I do not travel in the correct circles and I am not looking in the right places. To my knowledge motor shops to canvass for advice are almost non existent locally. The only shop I know of locally closed as the gentleman was probably in his 80s if I had to guess. So since I am a do it myself kind of guy here we are. The problem lies in the fact that at my skill level I am more of a cosmologist. I have become rather good at putting lipstick on proverbial pigs. I guess the question now is how to get this thing running. I believe some testing may be in order first though. Firstly, after some ohm testing what would be considered an acceptable meg ohm value for these coils? Is there anything, procedurally, I want to consider when ohm testing this that would differ from the AC motors I have? Secondly, I do not see amperage information anywhere, does anyone know what would be acceptable? It's not a fan but, this is my current project which is still underway. Attached Image (viewed 1222 times):
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| Posted: Fri Sep 24th, 2021 05:01 am |
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19th Post |
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Richard Daugird AFCA Member 
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Sorry I can't help you on your electrical issue, but wow what a cool shop you have!
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| Posted: Fri Sep 24th, 2021 01:55 pm |
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20th Post |
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Todd Armentrout Guest
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Thank you for the compliment. My end goal is to have everything completely serviced, restored and ready to use. Pass everything on to my son eventually. If I can get this fan figured out properly it may end up a wedding present for him. On a different note I did some testing on the armature and ohm readings on the commutator seem to be just fine. So that is a step in the right direction.
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| Posted: Thu Sep 30th, 2021 03:30 pm |
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21st Post |
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Todd Armentrout Guest
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So after some insulation testing it looks like this fan may definitely be a contender. I think with a little cleaning, some new wiring and varnish along with a good old valve adjustment, rotor and distributor cap there is hope. Someone mentioned the installation of a bridge rectifier. Does anyone have photos of one installed on this fan that I could reference? I'm feeling my way through this and information is out there but quite difficult to come by as it relates to this specific DC fan. Also I'm finding the number of folks able or willing to offer guidance is somewhat limited for unknown reasons. On a different note I thought originally the blade may have been brass coated. After some gentle investigation I think it may be solid brass.
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| Posted: Thu Sep 30th, 2021 03:56 pm |
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22nd Post |
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Rick Powell AFCA Member 
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Richard Daugird wrote: Sorry I can't help you on your electrical issue, but wow what a cool shop you have! Very nice shop but way too clean!
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| Posted: Thu Sep 30th, 2021 05:03 pm |
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23rd Post |
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Todd Armentrout Guest
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Thank you for the compliment. This is the other side of the shop. It does get quite dirty. A dust collection system and box fans with house hvac filters for air filtration makes for easier clean up Attached Image (viewed 1074 times):
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| Posted: Thu Sep 30th, 2021 09:46 pm |
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24th Post |
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Todd Armentrout Guest
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Question. Would the "DC" determination be obtained from the CAT number of 60559? I believe I found a stamping mishap on the tag and I believe it is DC. Had I not found this stamping issue could the correct current be obtained from the CAT? It seems I saw a catalog somewhere that listed the above cat number, different form, as DC. Am I in the ball park or significantly misguided?
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| Posted: Fri Oct 1st, 2021 01:18 am |
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25th Post |
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William Dunlap AFCA Member 
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What typically determines whether a motor is strictly DC is the field coil cores. If they are laminated, the motor is usually a universal motor which will run on AC or DC. If the core is solid, the fan cannot run on AC and it is a strictly DC motor. I usually install a bridge rectifier in line which makes them all universal motors. They run smoother also.Others will have to address any model significance from the numbers. Cheers, Bill
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| Posted: Mon Oct 4th, 2021 05:44 pm |
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26th Post |
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Todd Armentrout Guest
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Thank you for the reply Bill. I guess my next question to the folks reading this would be which bridge rectifier, specifically, would I want for this. Now I know there have been several posts where this has been discussed and folks have been guided to one or the other. I ask this because some of those posts are older. Most of what I have seen comes from Radio Shack, which to my knowledge is no longer. I could be wrong on that and please correct me if I am not on point. Also since there is more than one available on the internet I ask to determine if one seems better suited than another. I would hate to put one on and a year later have it fail when all I had to do is ask. I don't believe in going in to something blind and stepping into the dark. I like to be as informed as possible so I can plan ahead.
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| Posted: Mon Oct 4th, 2021 06:08 pm |
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27th Post |
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William Dunlap AFCA Member
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Search ebay for KBU4J BRIDGE RECTIFIER 4 AMP 600V LOW PROFILE FAIRCHILD (5 PER LOT)You can use 3 amp but I like these because they have a mounting hole. Cheers, Bill
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| Posted: Mon Oct 4th, 2021 06:27 pm |
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28th Post |
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Todd Armentrout Guest
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Bill. I can't express my gratitude enough. Thank you. I f this is the piece you are referencing I will hit the go fast button. Now I am curious if anyone has any input as to testing the speed coil. Attached Image (viewed 987 times):
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| Posted: Mon Oct 4th, 2021 09:18 pm |
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29th Post |
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William Dunlap AFCA Member
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Dems da ones.
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| Posted: Mon Oct 4th, 2021 09:21 pm |
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30th Post |
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William Dunlap AFCA Member
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The speed coil is resistance wire wound around an insulator, like asbestos. I prefer fiberglass for obvious reasons. There should be a couple of ohms readings across the coil, like 100 and 200. I've no idea what ohms but it will be likely in that range. The resistance wire is essentially stainless steel which has issues with regards to soldering. If you get no readings, or very high ones, re-solder the connections to the switch before you do anything else. These can be rewound quite easily at home. Cheers, Bill
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| Posted: Tue Oct 5th, 2021 03:07 pm |
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31st Post |
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Todd Armentrout Guest
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Please correct me if I'm wrong but would I test between the bare wires and power input/cord? Attached Image (viewed 953 times):
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| Posted: Tue Oct 5th, 2021 06:15 pm |
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32nd Post |
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William Dunlap AFCA Member
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Attach your ohmmeter to the switch contacts (the nuts you see there. Between the first and second nut, you should see xx ohms and between the first and third, you should see maybe twice xx.
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| Posted: Tue Oct 5th, 2021 06:41 pm |
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33rd Post |
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Todd Armentrout Guest
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pic of ohm reading Attached Image (viewed 943 times):
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| Posted: Tue Oct 5th, 2021 06:41 pm |
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34th Post |
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Todd Armentrout Guest
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another Attached Image (viewed 930 times):
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| Posted: Tue Oct 5th, 2021 06:42 pm |
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35th Post |
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Todd Armentrout Guest
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last one Attached Image (viewed 937 times):
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| Posted: Tue Oct 5th, 2021 09:17 pm |
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36th Post |
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William Dunlap AFCA Member
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I think that the last ohm reading is beyond the set scale. Go to 2k and see what it reads. I think there is high resistance there. Cheers, Bill
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| Posted: Tue Oct 5th, 2021 10:29 pm |
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37th Post |
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Todd Armentrout Guest
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I don't have a reference to compare these numbers to. Can anyone tell me if they are in the ball park? Bill. You, good sir, are a life saver! Mahalo my friend. The bridge rectifiers are in the mail and should be here in a few days. Any recommendations for wire size? Usually I just order a kit from Vintage Wire and Supply. Attached Image (viewed 907 times):
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| Posted: Wed Oct 6th, 2021 01:31 am |
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38th Post |
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William Dunlap AFCA Member
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I think those numbers will work just fine. Cheers, Bill
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| Posted: Wed Oct 6th, 2021 03:19 pm |
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39th Post |
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Todd Armentrout Guest
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Taking a look under the tape. What do you all think? Attached Image (viewed 879 times):
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| Posted: Thu Oct 7th, 2021 11:20 am |
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40th Post |
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Lane Shirey AFCA Member 
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First of all, clean your connections on the switch and tighten up all of the fasteners.
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