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Resurrection of an Emerson fern leaf ceiling fan  Rate Topic 
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 Posted: Sun Nov 23rd, 2014 11:07 pm
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Tom Dreesen
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First, I would like to again thank Joe Sheldon for finding and saving this fan and the AFCA shipping department for getting it to me.

As Joe found it:






Although some might think it ready for the scrapper,
remember, Emersons are "Built to Last".

A lot of PBlaster and elbow grease and she came right apart.


There was quite a bit of dirt in the cup and although the bearing will be replaced, everything else is in fine shape.  The speed coil ohms out fine but the switch is not working.



The rotor was glued on the shaft with old dried oil, but it wasn't too bad getting it out.




I used this wheel instead of wire.  Not sure what it is, but it doesn't tear you up if you hit a finger.



And it did this:





a little close work with the Dremel and it will be ready.



I decided on a satin black:





So while the paint cures, on to the irons and blades, and hanger, and canopy, and ...

More later.

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 Posted: Sun Nov 23rd, 2014 11:22 pm
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George Durbin
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Hi Tom!
Very nice Mr. Dreeson! Can't wait to see finished product! The old ceiling fans are beautiful and even the ones considered every day commercial runners are quite nice!
Geo...

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 Posted: Mon Nov 24th, 2014 12:21 am
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David Hoatson
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Tom, you work quickly!

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 Posted: Mon Nov 24th, 2014 12:58 am
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Stephen Chew
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Wow!!! Very nice Tom. I might have to have one someday.

Steve

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 Posted: Mon Nov 24th, 2014 02:04 am
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Nicholas Denney
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Tom, have you yet used Evap-O-Rust or electrolysis? Definitely an investment for someone like you that frequently picks up Lousiana mudpies....

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 Posted: Mon Nov 24th, 2014 02:21 am
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Andrew Block
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:clap::clap::clap::clap::clap::clap::clap::clap:

Tom does beautiful work. That fan was a rust bucket when I handed it off to him, so I'll vouch he's an alchemist,making gold out of rust.

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 Posted: Mon Nov 24th, 2014 04:22 am
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Steve Cunningham
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Nice work Tom.

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 Posted: Mon Nov 24th, 2014 02:23 pm
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Larry Hancock
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Looking good sir.

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 Posted: Mon Nov 24th, 2014 02:44 pm
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Stan Adams
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Hey Tom, you have my fan looking great...now when are you going to bring it back!:D

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 Posted: Mon Nov 24th, 2014 08:58 pm
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Steve Owsley
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Nicholas Denney wrote: Tom, have you yet used Evap-O-Rust or electrolysis? Definitely an investment for someone like you that frequently picks up Lousiana mudpies....
Those were my thoughts exactly. Fan looks good, but I too wonder if the rust removal tool was more aggressive than needed.

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 Posted: Mon Nov 24th, 2014 09:30 pm
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Tom Dreesen
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Steve Owsley wrote: Nicholas Denney wrote: Tom, have you yet used Evap-O-Rust or electrolysis? Definitely an investment for someone like you that frequently picks up Lousiana mudpies....
Those were my thoughts exactly. Fan looks good, but I too wonder if the rust removal tool was more aggressive than needed.

"No metal was removed in the resurrection of this fan".

That wheel won't cut flesh (I tried) so I am sure that the iron wasn't touched.

I haven't tried Evao-Rust, but I will whenever I make a trip to Harbor Freight.

However, you have to remember that Evapo-Rust doesn't convert rust back to metal, it chelates it away so any damage already done will NOT be reversed.  Any pitting or loss of detail will remain.  Simply look at the closeups and you can see that all the fine detail is still present.


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 Posted: Mon Nov 24th, 2014 09:36 pm
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Russ Huber
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Steve Owsley wrote: Nicholas Denney wrote: Tom, have you yet used Evap-O-Rust or electrolysis? Definitely an investment for someone like you that frequently picks up Lousiana mudpies....
Those were my thoughts exactly. Fan looks good, but I too wonder if the rust removal tool was more aggressive than needed.

Ya wanna skip Evaporated-Rust, Electorlasssis, and minimize dremel time?  All ya need a beat up old hammer drill and a cheapo FORNEY FINE wire wheel. Ace is the place or even Amazon! :clap:

Attached Image (viewed 871 times):

715jmJwK4XL._SL1000_.jpg

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 Posted: Mon Nov 24th, 2014 09:37 pm
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Russ Huber
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.

Attached Image (viewed 890 times):

51LjMw808HL._SL1000_.jpg

Last edited on Mon Nov 24th, 2014 09:38 pm by Russ Huber

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 Posted: Mon Nov 24th, 2014 09:47 pm
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Tom Dreesen
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Russ Huber wrote: Steve Owsley wrote: Nicholas Denney wrote: Tom, have you yet used Evap-O-Rust or electrolysis? Definitely an investment for someone like you that frequently picks up Lousiana mudpies....
Those were my thoughts exactly. Fan looks good, but I too wonder if the rust removal tool was more aggressive than needed.

Ya wanna skip Evaporated-Rust, Electorlasssis, and minimize dremel time?  All ya need a beat up old hammer drill and a cheapo FORNEY FINE wire wheel. Ace is the place or even Amazon! :clap:

But that WILL remove metal (and flesh)...

I have worn out many over the years.

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 Posted: Mon Nov 24th, 2014 10:23 pm
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Russ Huber
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Tom Dreesen wrote: But that WILL remove metal (and flesh)

Not much more than the rust has already removed.  Try using some chore gloves dude why your wire wheeling, either drill or bench grinder.  Since I have used the chore gloves I have yet to break a nail or scratch my nail polish. 
And YUP!  The dremel IS my right hand.  I buy the mini dremel wire wheels by the pound.

Attached Image (viewed 885 times):

20PCS-Steel-Wire-Wheel-Brushes-Dremel-Accessories-For-Rotary-Tools.jpg

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 Posted: Mon Nov 24th, 2014 10:36 pm
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Tom Dreesen
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"Not much more than the rust has already removed."

Maybe (I have seen it), maybe not (seen that also).

Why take the chance?

Once gone, it ain't coming back.

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 Posted: Mon Nov 24th, 2014 11:55 pm
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Steve Sherwood
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Nice restoration.

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 Posted: Tue Nov 25th, 2014 04:15 am
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Tim Marks
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If there's rust, the metal is gone. if you paint over the rust, it will just rust again. Especially when rust is sprayed over with solvent cure enamels or other spray can type products. The best bet for any restoration is always to remove the rust fully in an appropriate manner. Removing rust does not mean removing detail.

I recommend electrolysis. It does not remove material quickly and is extremely cheap and simple to use.

There are other products out there that you could use after performing a light surface treatment like what was done here, such as Ospho. Ospho is a phosphoric acid treatment and it works rather well. You may find it very useful to convert the rust left in the crevices of your fan to something that won't get worse. Or just keep doing what you're doing. 

Last edited on Tue Nov 25th, 2014 04:20 am by Tim Marks

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 Posted: Tue Nov 25th, 2014 05:09 am
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Jeff Whitfield
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I like electrolysis, but I don't know how you use it without encountering flash rust when you're done with the electrolysis, yet need to clean the washing soda from the item before priming it.
It'd be interesting to see how people here deal with the flash rust.


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 Posted: Tue Nov 25th, 2014 05:20 am
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Tim Marks
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Jeff Whitfield wrote: I like electrolysis, but I don't know how you use it without encountering flash rust when you're done with the electrolysis, yet need to clean the washing soda from the item before priming it.
It'd be interesting to see how people here deal with the flash rust.



scotchbrite, blasting, or ospho are all excellent means of dealing with this.

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 Posted: Tue Nov 25th, 2014 02:02 pm
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Tom Dreesen
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"You may find it very useful to convert the rust left in the crevices of your fan to something that won't get worse. Or just keep doing what you're doing."

Rust, the oxide of iron, requires 3 things to form:

 iron
plus oxygen and the catalyst water.

That is why iron lasts in the desert Southwest (little water) and the bottom of the ocean (plenty of water but little oxygen).

This is why we paint (or use other surface treatments) iron, to exclude oxygen and water.

The reason to remove the existing rust (and all other contaminants) is to allow the best possible bond between the paint and the iron.


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 Posted: Tue Nov 25th, 2014 02:05 pm
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Tim Marks
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Tom-

Rattle can paints are not a completely impervious barrier to oxygen and moisture. That is why they are inferior at preventing future rusting. Even automotive paints arent perfect, but theyre pretty darn good. Starting with a solid rust free base is the best solution. Painting over rust is not ideal unless it has been converted first.

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 Posted: Tue Nov 25th, 2014 02:17 pm
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Tom Dreesen
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Tim Marks wrote: Tom-

Rattle can paints are not a completely impervious barrier to oxygen and moisture. That is why they are inferior at preventing future rusting. Even automotive paints arent perfect, but theyre pretty darn good. Starting with a solid rust free base is the best solution. Painting over rust is not ideal unless it has been converted first.

The only thing any existing contaminant including rust does is to interfere with the physical bond of the paint.

Rust does NOT begat rust in the chemical sense.


And if you didn't notice above, I did indicate there was a crevice cleanup with a Dremel after that photo was taken.

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 Posted: Tue Nov 25th, 2014 02:25 pm
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Tim Marks
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The oxidation below your paint will continue. Doesn't mean it won't look great for 5-10 years until it bubbles out. I've listed some options for you in the future should you be interested in taking a different approach. It's your fan, it looks great, do what you like with it. We're only here to help.


Take care.

Last edited on Tue Nov 25th, 2014 02:26 pm by Tim Marks

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 Posted: Tue Nov 25th, 2014 02:34 pm
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Tom Dreesen
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Tim Marks wrote: The oxidation below your paint will continue. Doesn't mean it won't look great for 5-10 years until it bubbles out. I've listed some options for you in the future should you be interested in taking a different approach. It's your fan, it looks great, do what you like with it. We're only here to help.


Take care.

I always take care and I actually understand the chemistry.

Nothing short of copper flashing will stop all oxidation.

If you want to believe that your suggestions remove ALL iron oxide, and that any iron oxide begats more iron oxide, then I can't help you.

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 Posted: Tue Nov 25th, 2014 02:44 pm
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David Hoatson
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I like sandblasting.  You can get all the rust off even in areas that are hard to reach with wire brushes.  It also seems to be a good surface for primer and paint.

I think it's dangerous to leave any rust under fresh paint. there are conversion chemicals to stop it from growing.

Attached Image (viewed 793 times):

Blast.jpg

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 Posted: Tue Dec 2nd, 2014 07:46 pm
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Tom Dreesen
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Dryfit the fernleaf.  40 screws were cleaned and painted.

Long arm brackets to show off casting and short blades to keep it the correct 52 inch sweep.




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 Posted: Thu Oct 22nd, 2015 10:43 pm
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Tom Dreesen
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http://www.ebay.com/itm/-/301776704820?

I can do a direct sale for less eBay fees if anyone is interested.

Attached Image (viewed 1567 times):

Emerson 32641 shade full 2.jpg

Last edited on Thu Oct 22nd, 2015 11:18 pm by Tom Dreesen

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 Posted: Fri Oct 23rd, 2015 05:38 am
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David Foster
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Tom-
You do amazing work!  Someday I'll have the reinforce my tract house ceiling and get a ceiling fan. Your skills are inspiring and WAY above my skills. But I'm trying to learn. Little by little 

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 Posted: Fri Oct 23rd, 2015 03:47 pm
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George Durbin
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Great save!  A beauty!!
Geo...

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 Posted: Fri Oct 23rd, 2015 04:48 pm
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Chris Heinis
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Did you fix the switch? Kim frank fixes the GE switches by drilling with a 1/16 bit and then pinning and epoxying together

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 Posted: Fri Oct 23rd, 2015 05:26 pm
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Tom Dreesen
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Chris Heinis wrote: Did you fix the switch? Kim frank fixes the GE switches by drilling with a 1/16 bit and then pinning and epoxying together
Just the outer porcelain ring in 4 pieces remained.  While it was all there and could be repaired, all the inner rotating parts were long gone.

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 Posted: Fri Oct 23rd, 2015 05:29 pm
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Larry Hancock
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Looks wonderful Tom!

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 Posted: Fri Oct 23rd, 2015 09:53 pm
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Louis Weedman
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Hey Tom, where did you get that orange colored "wire" wheel? I didn't see them at Lowe's when I went there.

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 Posted: Fri Oct 23rd, 2015 10:22 pm
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Tom Dreesen
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Louis Weedman wrote: Hey Tom, where did you get that orange colored "wire" wheel? I didn't see them at Lowe's when I went there.
Either Homer's or Lowes.

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