AFCA Forums Home
AFCA Forums > Antique Fan Collectors Association > Pre-1950 (Antique) > Westinghouse Stamped Steel Stator Removal

 Moderated by: Steve Cunningham, Rod Rogers, Larry Hancock  
AuthorPost
Darrell Koller
AFCA Member
 

Joined: Sat Oct 3rd, 2015
Location: Ballwin, Missouri USA
Status: 
Online
Stamped steel Westys are notoriously hard to work on.  Particularly if you need to remove the stator from the motor housing.  I've looked around for the best way to accomplish this without damaging either the housing or the stator.  I've read of people drilling holes in the back of the housing and using a punch to pound the stator out.  I tried that once and ruined the stator.  I also read where someone cut slits in the housing to release the pressure and then welded them back before reassembly - too much work and no welder. 

I've been working on a few stamped steel Westys recently.  I've come up with a way that is simple and has worked perfectly for me several times.  I thought I'd share.  Don't hold me responsible if this doesn't work for you (my disclaimer).
Here's what you need:

Attached Image (viewed 1339 times):

Needed.jpg

Last edited on Thu Feb 25th, 2016 06:58 pm by Darrell Koller

Darrell Koller
AFCA Member
 

Joined: Sat Oct 3rd, 2015
Location: Ballwin, Missouri USA
Status: 
Online
Step 1

Attached Image (viewed 1197 times):

Step 1.jpg

Darrell Koller
AFCA Member
 

Joined: Sat Oct 3rd, 2015
Location: Ballwin, Missouri USA
Status: 
Online
Step 2

Attached Image (viewed 1181 times):

Step 2.jpg

Darrell Koller
AFCA Member
 

Joined: Sat Oct 3rd, 2015
Location: Ballwin, Missouri USA
Status: 
Online
Step 3

Attached Image (viewed 1183 times):

Step 3.jpg

Darrell Koller
AFCA Member
 

Joined: Sat Oct 3rd, 2015
Location: Ballwin, Missouri USA
Status: 
Online
Step 4

Attached Image (viewed 1106 times):

Step 4.jpg

Last edited on Fri Feb 26th, 2016 12:52 am by Darrell Koller

Darrell Koller
AFCA Member
 

Joined: Sat Oct 3rd, 2015
Location: Ballwin, Missouri USA
Status: 
Online
Step 5

Attached Image (viewed 1186 times):

Step 5.jpg

Darrell Koller
AFCA Member
 

Joined: Sat Oct 3rd, 2015
Location: Ballwin, Missouri USA
Status: 
Online
Step 6

Attached Image (viewed 1181 times):

step 6.jpg

Darrell Koller
AFCA Member
 

Joined: Sat Oct 3rd, 2015
Location: Ballwin, Missouri USA
Status: 
Online
Step 7

Attached Image (viewed 1180 times):

step 7.jpg

James Erwin
AFCA Member


Joined: Mon Sep 21st, 2015
Location: Munster, Indiana
Status: 
Offline
Nice post Darrell! I just started to tear in to a pair of these this afternoon! Thanks so much for sharing that!
James

Lane Shirey
AFCA Member


Joined: Wed Apr 30th, 2014
Location: Downingtown, Pennsylvania USA
Status: 
Offline
Darrell, thanks for your contribution, I've drilled the back of the motor housing and removed them that way with success. But I have several that I've held off, because the paint is too nice to drill. I'm off today to have a plate made. I already have the puller. 

Steven P Dempsey
AFCA Member


Joined: Tue May 15th, 2012
Location: Clarksville, Virginia USA
Status: 
Offline
Nice work!
Could be used on any stubborn stator, not just stamped motors!

Jimmy Doyle
Guest
 

Joined: Tue Dec 29th, 2015
Location: Maitland, Florida USA
Status: 
Offline
Great job, thanks so much for the detailed info

Mike Eckenroad
Guest


Joined: Thu Feb 26th, 2015
Location: Lakewood, OH
Status: 
Offline
Very nice contribution, much appreciated! 

Darrell Koller
AFCA Member
 

Joined: Sat Oct 3rd, 2015
Location: Ballwin, Missouri USA
Status: 
Online
Hey Guys, 
Thanks for the kudos and kind words.  Hopefully you will find it helpful and maybe it will benefit the number of restored stamped-steel Westys.  
I meant to mention that you can get the puller here, and two of the plates here.

George Durbin
AFCA Member


Joined: Fri Nov 2nd, 2012
Location:  
Status: 
Offline
Darrell Koller wrote: Hey Guys, 
Thanks for the kudos and kind words.  Hopefully you will find it helpful and maybe it will benefit the number of restored stamped-steel Westys.  
I meant to mention that you can get the puller here, and two of the plates here.

Hi Darrell!
Looks like I need to drag out some westys and give your system a shot!
Geo...

Darrell Koller
AFCA Member
 

Joined: Sat Oct 3rd, 2015
Location: Ballwin, Missouri USA
Status: 
Online
Let me know how it works for you, George.
BTW I love your avatar.  I used to have a little doxy named "Slinky".  She was my best buddy. 

Last edited on Fri Feb 26th, 2016 04:15 am by Darrell Koller

David Dimitrion
AFCA Member
 

Joined: Wed Feb 18th, 2015
Location:  
Status: 
Offline
Looks like a lot of work-or you can do it the easy way... this way will never damage the housing and takes less than one minute...

Attached Image (viewed 1061 times):

IMG_7026.jpg

Russ Huber
AFCA Member


Joined: Mon Nov 14th, 2005
Location: Southwest, Wisconsin USA
Status: 
Offline
Doug Handley wrote: Here is a very durable Westy stamped steel stator removal tool manufactured by Russ Petta from a scrap Westy motor housing.  The inside has been ground/sanded so the stator being removed will fall into the remover tool and easily retracted therefrom.  It would work on the same principal as the PVC pipe Kim showed.

Attached Image (viewed 1062 times):

stator remover tool 001.JPG

Russ Huber
AFCA Member


Joined: Mon Nov 14th, 2005
Location: Southwest, Wisconsin USA
Status: 
Offline
Doug Handley wrote: another view

Attached Image (viewed 1064 times):

stator remover tool 002.JPG

Russ Huber
AFCA Member


Joined: Mon Nov 14th, 2005
Location: Southwest, Wisconsin USA
Status: 
Offline
Kim Frank wrote: A piece of PVC machined to a couple thousandths over the stator diameter. Stick the motor housing against the edge of the PVC with the stator fitting inside, slap it on the concrete floor a couple of times and you have a removed stator. No bent or torqued housings....Mike Petree turned me on to this a few years back. I normally don't bother with pressed fit W/H motors but unfortunately, that is what is on the Gyros.......There is a lip that catches the stator and keeps it from falling thru the PVC.

Attached Image (viewed 1075 times):

IMG_1988.JPG

Russ Huber
AFCA Member


Joined: Mon Nov 14th, 2005
Location: Southwest, Wisconsin USA
Status: 
Offline
.

Attached Image (viewed 1077 times):

P1510688.JPG

Russ Huber
AFCA Member


Joined: Mon Nov 14th, 2005
Location: Southwest, Wisconsin USA
Status: 
Offline
.

Attached Image (viewed 1051 times):

P1510696.JPG

Russ Huber
AFCA Member


Joined: Mon Nov 14th, 2005
Location: Southwest, Wisconsin USA
Status: 
Offline
Yesiree...folks...more than on way to skin a Westy tin can stator.:D

David Dimitrion
AFCA Member
 

Joined: Wed Feb 18th, 2015
Location:  
Status: 
Offline
You need a  5"OD x 3 1/2 tall or so and a machined ID of 4.765 piece of pipe I think Kim Frank uses a piece of PVC I like steal...I have done at least couple dozen this way with out any damage to the housing or paint... I unscrew or remove the rivets holding the ID tag. no need to remove the isolator or bearing support and base mount... hold or tape the motor housing to pipe and Bang down on a piece of wood no heat needed... The stator comes right out. I sand the inside of the housing and the outside of the stator so it goes in a little easier hope this helps

Russ Huber
AFCA Member


Joined: Mon Nov 14th, 2005
Location: Southwest, Wisconsin USA
Status: 
Offline
David Dimitrion wrote: I think Kim Frank uses a piece of PVC

Russ Huber uses PVC as well. Facts are I banged the ever loving sh-t out of one STUBBORN Westy stator and that PVC held up on concrete.

That stator was so stubborn I had to drill the housing stator bolt holes wider and drive it out with the lip of the housing resting on the jaws of a large vice with a drift punch. NEVER PANIC....:clap::D

Last edited on Fri Feb 26th, 2016 05:27 am by Russ Huber

David Dimitrion
AFCA Member
 

Joined: Wed Feb 18th, 2015
Location:  
Status: 
Offline
x

Attached Image (viewed 1068 times):

stator.jpg

Darrell Koller
AFCA Member
 

Joined: Sat Oct 3rd, 2015
Location: Ballwin, Missouri USA
Status: 
Online
David Dimitrion wrote: Darrell Koller wrote: David Dimitrion wrote: Looks like a lot of work-or you can do it the easy way... this way will never damage the housing and takes less than one minute...
Hey David, 
That's really slick.  Where can I get one of those?  Do they come in multiple sizes?  Given that I do maybe two or three of these per year I'd certainly be interested in saving 9 minutes per fan.
:hammer:will never damage the housing..................................................................
Beautiful work!!!

Byron Brown
Guest
 

Joined: Thu Sep 26th, 2013
Location:  
Status: 
Offline
I must be slow. I have no idea what I'm looking at or how it works.  Can you enlighten me?
(In rerence to David's device above)

Last edited on Thu Mar 3rd, 2016 02:59 am by Byron Brown

Cory Baughn
AFCA Member


Joined: Tue Sep 9th, 2014
Location: Starkville, Mississippi USA
Status: 
Offline
I think that the tool that was created in the first post was more about finnesse and less about brute force and banging stuff. I think they both have their place, but with the gear puller and plate you can remove the really rusted ones without banging them into submission.



I would bet that some stators would never come out with the banging method alone if they had enough rust inside them. Maybe with some PB Blaster sprayed around the stator, but I don't like getting that stuff anywhere near the windings. But each method has it's proponents, but I am going to definitely build Mr. Koller's setup for ease of use on really stubborn stators.

Cory Baughn
AFCA Member


Joined: Tue Sep 9th, 2014
Location: Starkville, Mississippi USA
Status: 
Offline
I would like to add too that you could have the same plate drilled with bolt patterns of several fans you commonly work on and not have several different plates laying around. Also could affix the protective felt to the steel plate with an adhesive and it be a self contained unit. Just get the correct hardware for the stator needing removed, grab your gear puller, and go to town.


Could also have 5" and 4" steel plates set up for the 10" and smaller fans. :thumbup

Rick Huckabee
AFCA Member


Joined: Mon Jun 9th, 2008
Location: Lufkin, Texas USA
Status: 
Offline
David Dimitrion wrote: Looks like a lot of work-or you can do it the easy way... this way will never damage the housing and takes less than one minute...

That is the way I do it, out in 5 minutes. I have about 7 different sizes of pipe.

Russ Huber
AFCA Member


Joined: Mon Nov 14th, 2005
Location: Southwest, Wisconsin USA
Status: 
Offline
.

Attached Image (viewed 843 times):

Westinghouse Stator Removal Tool.jpg

Russ Huber
AFCA Member


Joined: Mon Nov 14th, 2005
Location: Southwest, Wisconsin USA
Status: 
Offline
Some of those stators are in the housing so tight I have used plan B. Plan B involves drilling two stator bolt housing holes just wide enough a drift punch gets good footing around the stator bolt hole in the stator. With a large vice you open the jaws just wide enough the lip of the motor housing seats securely on each vice jaw. Stuff a rag under the stator so when you drive it out it doesn't fall on the vice worm screw. After the housing holes are drilled just wide and deep enough, start driving out the stator with the drift punch evenly working back and forth to each of the two holes until is driven out. Careful there is something to catch the stator after you drive it out.

Doesn't matter your method, just make d amn sure your method does not distort that housing, if you do distort it just a tad, you have a high probability your rotor will bind. Good luck after that. :D 

Last edited on Fri Mar 4th, 2016 03:23 am by Russ Huber

Russ Huber
AFCA Member


Joined: Mon Nov 14th, 2005
Location: Southwest, Wisconsin USA
Status: 
Offline
Check out what Dennis Lebow and Tony Clayton came up with.  Also take notice of Tim Marks using the drift punch method to drive the stator out on a vice. 

http://www.afcaforum.com/forum1/35496.html

Last edited on Fri Mar 4th, 2016 03:35 am by Russ Huber

Rick Huckabee
AFCA Member


Joined: Mon Jun 9th, 2008
Location: Lufkin, Texas USA
Status: 
Offline
I found a 4" PVC collar at Lowe's that drops the small Emerson stamped steel stators out  Lickety-split . Went to my local machine shop and the manager gave me piece of pipe that was thrown into the scrap pile works perfect for the Big Motor Emersons. I did pay around $30-$35 for my other ones to be machined as I cannot do them myself. Definitely more than one way to Skin a Stamped Steel.

Michael Mirin
AFCA Member


Joined: Wed Mar 28th, 2007
Location: Merrillville, Indiana USA
Status: 
Offline
Great Idea!

George Durbin
AFCA Member


Joined: Fri Nov 2nd, 2012
Location:  
Status: 
Offline
Hi Darrell!

I am with you Darrell... Those parts can be picked up at garage sales for a dime!... Your system can be used on any stator! With minimal care a little tapping and maybe some heat that system looks to be cracker Jack! I know several posts on here where the rear cover was destroyed with the ponding method... I will try yours some day and just maybe I will appreciate the can westys a little more!!

geo... 

Last edited on Thu Feb 23rd, 2017 06:01 pm by George Durbin

George Durbin
AFCA Member


Joined: Fri Nov 2nd, 2012
Location:  
Status: 
Offline
Rick Huckabee wrote: I found a 4" PVC collar at Lowe's that drops the small Emerson stamped steel stators out  Lickety-split . Went to my local machine shop and the manager gave me piece of pipe that was thrown into the scrap pile works perfect for the Big Motor Emersons. I did pay around $30-$35 for my other ones to be machined as I cannot do them myself. Definitely more than one way to Skin a Stamped Steel.

Hi Rick!

Good methods all!!  Quite a brain trust we have here!

geo...

Daniel OToole
AFCA Member
 

Joined: Mon Jun 3rd, 2013
Location:  
Status: 
Offline
Cool idea

Lucas Beshara
AFCA Member


Joined: Wed Jan 25th, 2017
Location: East Texas
Status: 
Offline












Thanks Darrell for your post!  I don't know that there would have been any other way this stubborn stator would have come out.  With the banging method I didn't get it to budge AT ALL. 

I had some 1/4" plate laying around and the first thing I did was drill my center hold and line the center of front housing up on that hole with a 1/4 bolt.  Then center punched all 4 holes with the front housing centered with the 1/4" bolt.  drill those out and your in business.

A couple notes is to screw those screws down as far as you can without the plate touching the windings.  I screwed down about 3/4" and turned on the puller.  It just stretched the stator plates where the screws were.  Then I went in ~1" and it started to do the same thing so I heated, still the same... No stator movement.  Finally with heat and pounding on the side of the case, (no blow hammer), with pressure from the puller it started to came out.  These things are a bear!


Darrell Koller
AFCA Member
 

Joined: Sat Oct 3rd, 2015
Location: Ballwin, Missouri USA
Status: 
Online
Awesome Lucas!

Yeah, I've had a couple on which the stator laminates puckered a little. I've considered using longer screws - maybe 2.5 inch, but so far I've not encountered any ill effects of the pulled laminates. I simply put the opposite edge of the stator on an anvil and hammer them flat again. It doesn't take much to straighten them out.

One thing that I'll add to your suggestion of making sure that you've run the screws down far enough is to make sure that they are run down equally.  Even the slightest inconsistency can cause binding.  I always count my turns on each screw to make sure the force is distributed evenly.


I'm thrilled that someone else found this technique helpful.

Later,

---Darrell

Last edited on Thu Mar 2nd, 2017 08:24 pm by Darrell Koller

NM Whitney Jr.
AFCA Member


Joined: Thu Aug 9th, 2012
Location: Graham, North Carolina USA
Status: 
Offline
Darrell,
Probably one of the most useful posts I've read in a while. I'm no machinist (and have only knives and sticks for tools by comparison). Your method is one that my primitive caveman mind should be able to replicate.

Now if I could somehow apply your method to removing the headlight bulbs from an old VW TDI... hmmm...

Peace,
Norm

Darrell Koller
AFCA Member
 

Joined: Sat Oct 3rd, 2015
Location: Ballwin, Missouri USA
Status: 
Online
NM Whitney Jr. wrote: Darrell,
Probably one of the most useful posts I've read in a while. I'm no machinist (and have only knives and sticks for tools by comparison). Your method is one that my primitive caveman mind should be able to replicate.

Now if I could somehow apply your method to removing the headlight bulbs from an old VW TDI... hmmm...

Peace,
Norm
LOL,
Thanks for the laugh Norm!  Afraid I'm no help on the VW headlights.  I'm sometimes amazed by the lack of forethought that goes into some designs".  I've got a Pontiac Solstice on which I've had to replace the battery.  You actually have to remove the front fender to do so.  Brilliant!

Later,
---Darrell

Lucas Beshara
AFCA Member


Joined: Wed Jan 25th, 2017
Location: East Texas
Status: 
Offline
Another happy customer!  Should have this 6 winger going after I figuer out the wiring👍


Used 2" 8-32's and they threaded in. It moved on the first twist. Had to make another plate to fit, but so worth it!






Lucas Beshara
AFCA Member


Joined: Wed Jan 25th, 2017
Location: East Texas
Status: 
Offline
Just wanted to give credit where credit is due. Darrell walked me/ us how to make the tool I demoed at Geoff's this weekend. A lot of people saw and liked this method Darrell!  Thanks again!


Beige Theme By: Di @ UltraBB
UltraBB 1.17 Copyright © 2007-2008 Data 1 Systems
Page processed in 0.2852 seconds (30% database + 70% PHP). 40 queries executed.