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 Posted: Tue Sep 5th, 2017 12:25 am
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Russ Huber
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David, I bet your dead on.  No variable speed.

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 Posted: Tue Sep 5th, 2017 12:45 am
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Levi Mevis
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There are some other model 35's on here albeit they are A.C. rather than DC models but they should have some similarities to each other nonetheless and apparently the AC version of the model 35 fan was a 5 speed fan with a pull-chain style switch that has a speed indicator built-in (where it shows the speed number position through a small triangular window) and those too showed only 2 numbers with a hyphen in between them meaning that the fan operated in between those two speeds, which means that this  fan could of been a 5 speed as well and operated between 400 and 800 rpms. Plus by the looks of the A.C. model (which the DC version should be the same design as well) the back cap is a two piece assembly. Just search Fres'nd Aire Model 35 here in the forum and you'll find at least two threads covering the model 35 Fresh'd Aire Pedestal Fans but they are A.C. models but are similar enough in design that you should find out what you need to know about what your fan may have looked like design wise.

Hope this helps.

Levi

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 Posted: Tue Sep 5th, 2017 03:32 am
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Russ Huber
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Patents pending...AC and DC

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Last edited on Tue Sep 5th, 2017 03:32 am by Russ Huber

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 Posted: Tue Sep 5th, 2017 03:51 am
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Russ Huber
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Levi Mevis wrote: There are some other model 35's on here albeit they are A.C. rather than DC models but they should have some similarities to each other nonetheless and apparently the AC version of the model 35 fan was a 5 speed fan with a pull-chain style switch that has a speed indicator built-in (where it shows the speed number position through a small triangular window) and those too showed only 2 numbers with a hyphen in between them meaning that the fan operated in between those two speeds, which means that this  fan could of been a 5 speed as well and operated between 400 and 800 rpms. Plus by the looks of the A.C. model (which the DC version should be the same design as well) the back cap is a two piece assembly. Just search Fres'nd Aire Model 35 here in the forum and you'll find at least two threads covering the model 35 Fresh'd Aire Pedestal Fans but they are A.C. models but are similar enough in design that you should find out what you need to know about what your fan may have looked like design wise.

Hope this helps.

Levi

The Central Lab rheostat I posted were on AC models, both base and bullet rheostats from 16" Russell Electric & Fresh'nd-aire models.  Typically on the larger early Freshy rheostat models the rheostat and rear die cast chrome plate bullet are missing.


The AC models can range 800-1600 RPM.  If in fact Evan's model 35 DC example has a dual series/shunt motor it would be my distinct impression both windings were choked(resistor) individually for OPTIONAL easy going 800 or 400 RPM.  THINK ABOUT IT.....A 2 pole DC MODEL 35 OPERATING AT 1750+ RPM would take the paint off of the walls. :D 


Last edited on Tue Sep 5th, 2017 03:53 am by Russ Huber

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 Posted: Thu Sep 14th, 2017 09:01 am
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Evan Atkinson
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Got into cleaning the motor tonight.  Can someone advise me what type of bearings I have on the front and rear? They look like brass sleeve bearings, but notice how the inside of the bearing has a matrix-like web of cross hatching?  Can anyone tell me what type of bearings these are and how best to clean (or leave them alone)? They do not seem to be self-aligning...

Interesting thrust ball and pocket.  Seems like a centering assist to keep the armature in position as well as a thrust.

Here are pictures of some notes Marshall Smith and I made when we examined the motor.  Can anybody make heads or tails about what type of winding this is?







  







Last edited on Thu Sep 14th, 2017 10:07 pm by Evan Atkinson

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 Posted: Thu Sep 14th, 2017 09:49 pm
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David Allen
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That is an unusual design! I do suspect that the D wire is indeed a shunt field winding. Would love to see a factory diagram!

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 Posted: Thu Sep 14th, 2017 10:28 pm
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Evan Atkinson
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David Allen wrote: That is an unusual design! I do suspect that the D wire is indeed a shunt field winding. Would love to see a factory diagram!
As would I David!  So far, I have found nothing at all to guide me as to the correct appearance or operation of this monster.  I may have to trek to the L.A. public library to research this one in actual physical electrical journals, instead of Googling as I normally do.  I think most of us here remember how efficient that is  :hammer:


Is there anything else I can do to confirm that the windings are indeed shunt field windings?  And second to that, would the presence of a shunt field winding tell you that there would have been no external resistance coil of any kind, but probably just a selector switch to choose one winding or the other?


Darn, I really wish that switch was still there  :violin:


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 Posted: Fri Sep 15th, 2017 01:55 am
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Henry Carrera
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Henry Carrera wrote: I'm thinking your speeds are the extra wires controlling the field. Maybe a series 800 parallel 400 setup.


Looks like it could be this configuration ^^^. I doubt there is external resistance as it would be inefficient and expensive on a large motor. Your A-B and D-E readings has me concerned. Any reading for D-F?

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 Posted: Fri Sep 15th, 2017 03:58 pm
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Evan Atkinson
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Henry Carrera wrote: Henry Carrera wrote: I'm thinking your speeds are the extra wires controlling the field. Maybe a series 800 parallel 400 setup.


Looks like it could be this configuration ^^^. I doubt there is external resistance as it would be inefficient and expensive on a large motor. Your A-B and D-E readings has me concerned. Any reading for D-F?

Hi Henry.  I don't understand what ^^^ means.  Being an electrical novice.  Would explain it in layman' terms?  No readings for D-E that I've taken.  I'd have to check again.

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 Posted: Fri Sep 15th, 2017 04:56 pm
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Henry Carrera
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Evan Atkinson wrote: Henry Carrera wrote: Henry Carrera wrote: I'm thinking your speeds are the extra wires controlling the field. Maybe a series 800 parallel 400 setup.


Looks like it could be this configuration ^^^. I doubt there is external resistance as it would be inefficient and expensive on a large motor. Your A-B and D-E readings has me concerned. Any reading for D-F?

Hi Henry.  I don't understand what ^^^ means.  Being an electrical novice.  Would explain it in layman' terms?  No readings for D-E that I've taken.  I'd have to check again.


Oh sorry, they were meant to be arrows pointing to the quote.

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 Posted: Sat Sep 16th, 2017 01:37 am
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Russ Huber
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.

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 Posted: Sat Sep 16th, 2017 01:56 am
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Evan Atkinson
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Thanks Russ!  Studying your drawings to make sense of them.  I'm getting there...

Any possibility the front and rear bearings on this are graphite-filled?  Were that to be the case, I wouldn't understand the purpose of the Gits oilers front and rear, nor the wool packing around the sleeves that are usually soaked in oil, surrounding Oilite bearings.  Yet these bearings don't seem to be Oilites....

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 Posted: Sat Sep 16th, 2017 02:05 am
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Russ Huber
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Don't sweat the funky little oil channels in the sleeve bearings.  Just a common sleeve bearing replacement will do the trick, if needed.  If the armature shaft is sloppy in the bearing then I guess machine some new ones.


JUST MAKE SURE THERE IS A MEANS FOR OIL TO GET BETWEEN THE SHAFT AND THE BEARING. :D

Last edited on Sat Sep 16th, 2017 02:08 am by Russ Huber

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 Posted: Sat Sep 16th, 2017 03:24 am
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Evan Atkinson
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That there's the point of my question.  Those do not seem to be grooves in the bearing sleeve at all, though they appear to be. Gentle, but firm prodding does not clear or remove the black material, which I've been informed might be graphite.  Yet, it's clear the bearings are oiled bearings from the ports and the material in the pocket that surrounds them.  It's funny: the bearings have no holes or trough openings in them to allow the oiled packing material to contact the shaft directly (that I can see), which tells me the bearings should be Oilite, but the design of the criss-cross lines makes me think oil is supposed to flow through them.  Yet I have scraped as hard as I dare on those lines and they truly do not seem to be channels.  Stumped, for the moment!

The bearings do not appear removeable: they look cast-in.  Tolerances are still very tight.  Should be no need to replace these.

Last edited on Mon Sep 18th, 2017 07:28 am by Evan Atkinson

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