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Painting a Emerson Fan  Rate Topic 
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 Posted: Sat Jul 14th, 2018 03:13 am
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Dick English
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Help needed. I’m new to painting and im not happy with my work. I used Rustolem epoxy paint with no primer. Waited 1 week between coats, as the can said. The paint crinkled up. I bead blasted all parts before painting. I will re blast the parts bu need help on how to paint, and what to use ??? Sorry for the gear box picture don’t know how to remove from post ? Thank you for any help you can give.Dick English

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 Posted: Sat Jul 14th, 2018 11:25 am
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Lane Shirey
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The Rustoleum epoxy paint seems to work best if you apply one medium coat and then a wet coat almost immediately. I’ve had it wrinkle the undercoat just waiting one day. 

I apply the first coat, hit it with a heat gun to flash it, then apply the second coat...done. 


And allow a week for it to harden. If you have a hot attic, use it as your curing oven. 

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 Posted: Sat Jul 14th, 2018 12:31 pm
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Pete Hahn
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I've used appliance epoxy quite a bit and have had it wrinkle up before also . If you read the can instructions it says to recoat within 1 hour or after 48 . I apply it very thick and have pushed finger prints in the paint upon reassembly up to 3 weeks later. I'm sure humidity this time of year is playing a large roll in your issues.  I have had better success for epoxy paint drying in the winter running heat in my shop but the attic method worked well also . Only thing about the attic is it seemed to change the color slightly . Good luck  Pete

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 Posted: Sat Jul 14th, 2018 12:41 pm
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Richard Littlepage
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all the same happened to me as well as everyone has said already. My dad's been paying cars for 50 years he don't like spray can but oh well it works for me. Or he would be painting all my fans haha. He showed me to put on one light coat of Automotive primer that you can get from Home Depot or Lowe's wherever and once you put the primer on within 5 minutes you can epoxy. Again same way one light coat of epoxy wait 2 or 3 minutes and one good coat wait 2 or 3 more minutes and hit it again and let sit usually I have them hanging by a coat hanger

Last edited on Sat Jul 14th, 2018 12:42 pm by Richard Littlepage

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 Posted: Sun Jul 15th, 2018 10:23 pm
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Dick English
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Thank you so much for your help. I will try that and see what happens. Was thinking about sanding it with 1000 grit and re coat it? It doesn’t look to bad I’m just real fussy about things. 

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 Posted: Sun Jul 15th, 2018 10:48 pm
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Steve Sherwood
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Humidity can be a problem, also if you re coat and the paint starts to cure it will cause "orange peel" from the fumes evaporating. Do like they said and wait 2 or 3 minutes. I would not sand the paint or you will have to wait until it completely cures, which could be days depending on the humidity. If you want a real smooth finish you will need to use some body putty, then sand it all down.Prime it.Then paint the finish coat.

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 Posted: Mon Jul 16th, 2018 03:02 am
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Dick English
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Thank you Steve. I will not sand this fan, it looks good but not great. I have learned a lot from everyone’s help and will apply on the next  GE fan I’m doing.  

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 Posted: Mon Jul 16th, 2018 02:09 pm
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Tom Newcity
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This is exactly why I went to catalyst activated 2-part paints and a cheap spray gun many years ago. 

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 Posted: Mon Jul 16th, 2018 02:41 pm
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Chris A. Campbell
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I too always fought the appliance epoxy spray paints. 2 part activated is best but if you really wish to use spray cans go with lacquer. It will dry fast and can be built up. Clear top coat will enhance the gloss.

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 Posted: Mon Jul 16th, 2018 02:54 pm
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David Kilnapp
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Putting a clear top coat will indeed enhance the gloss but can also result in wrinkling. The lacquer attacks the paint. Best to wait several weeks or a month before putting on a top coat of clear lacquer. Chris: Where does one acquire the two part activated paint? I've used two part systems that I got from auto paint manufacturers where the base coat was a sandable primer (almost a powder spray). Got real good results with that. Is that what you are referring to?

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 Posted: Mon Jul 16th, 2018 04:27 pm
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Chris A. Campbell
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David Kilnapp wrote: Putting a clear top coat will indeed enhance the gloss but can also result in wrinkling. The lacquer attacks the paint. Best to wait several weeks or a month before putting on a top coat of clear lacquer. Chris: Where does one acquire the two part activated paint? I've used two part systems that I got from auto paint manufacturers where the base coat was a sandable primer (almost a powder spray). Got real good results with that. Is that what you are referring to?

I used clear lacquer over black lacquer and for a spray can thought it was ok. No problems. Sprayed same or next day. Dries fast. Thought the black lacquer alone was somewhat molted in gloss but clear lacquer covered.  Clear lacquer lacks what a 2 part activated urethance will provide.

Would never consider clear lacquer over appliance epoxy. Have sprayed urethane over black lacquer as an experiment. Maybe lucky as that worked but will stick with the designed base/clear process as designed.  

Was only suggesting the lacquer as an alternative to the Ace and Rustoleum Appliance epoxies as it dries fast and can be built up in thin layers followed by heavy final layer.

David.. sounds like you may have used an activated clear over primer. Base coats lay on top of primer and not intended to be sanded. Primers are sandable and generally are gray but often tinted for automotive based on the color of base paint. Dark colored base paints work well with dark gray or black primer. For a fan indoors not as noticable but on a car a black base over gray or white primer will reflect lighter spots through any thinner areas of a dark base color. The clear coat urethane when mixed with an activator just locks down the paint and with automotive in mind designed to block UV rays from fading the underlying base color  

Once a clear urethane has cured it can be wetsanded and polished to remove dust and runs. If you want to lay more clear on clear after cured it must be scuffed with a gray pad in order for the new layer to bite into existing layer or peeling could later happen.


Automotive paint shops sell the paint process.  PPG, Sherwin Williams, BASF, DuPont. I buy epoxy primer and some paints made by BASF and PPG from English Color. Clear urethane I buy from Southern Poly and get the Universal vs Euro. Euro is designed for in and out production. Cures rock hard and no fun to polish. For a car it would chip quicker as it is hard. Universal clear is slightly softer and can be polished and designed for show cars as all orange peel can be sanded and polished

Primer, Base, (Pearl optional tri-coat), Clear


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 Posted: Mon Jul 16th, 2018 04:37 pm
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David Kilnapp
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Thanks Chris. This is very helpful. I'm trying to get the best result for black and Charleston Green painted fans short of powder coating. I have some spray urethane (smells awful). Would that work over black epoxy without potentially ruining the finish?

Last edited on Mon Jul 16th, 2018 04:40 pm by David Kilnapp

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 Posted: Mon Jul 16th, 2018 06:25 pm
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Dick English
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Thank you very much Chris. I will go and get a spray gun and get the paint you said. I have several fans I would like to restore with paint. 

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