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8 Vane contra-oscillating 12 inch deflector completed  Rate Topic 
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 Posted: Fri May 17th, 2019 01:14 am
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William Dunlap
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Location: Kula, Maui, Hawaii USA
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Completion of this project had to wait for me to finish up current projects and an unfortunate incident with a buffing wheel caused a delay to order some new brass. So I had 3 days to finish this one.I wanted this guy to stand out a bit, so I ordered a pattern stencil from a guy in Australia which is a version of a classic Greek pattern.
Kind of looks like ancient fans to me....
With careful assembly and lubrication on the numerous pivot points I've made it run a bit smoother too. I will likely mount in on my pancake and see how it runs now.
This one will go up for sale soon. I will post it on ebay with a starting bid. I'll post on the BST when that happens. Probably by tomorrow morning, I think.
I ran this one for about two hours last night without incident. and I now have great confidence that it's as good as I can make it.

If the question is how do you make a deflector, the answer I would give is, one piece at a time.

004 by William Dunlap, on Flickr

And make sure the parts play well together.

011 by William Dunlap, on Flickr

Keeping in mind the overall aesthetics of the project.

006 by William Dunlap, on Flickr

Look for ways to improve the design.

012 by William Dunlap, on Flickr

Test it repeatedly to make sure it works as intended. If it doesn't, back up and do it again.
Present the design to the forum for comment, both positive and negative.




Cheers,
Bill

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 Posted: Fri May 17th, 2019 01:33 am
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David Allen
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It is a genuine work of art. Stunning. The etching on the deflector vanes really takes the cake. Love it!

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 Posted: Fri May 17th, 2019 01:37 am
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Steve Butler
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Artist, mad scientist, evil genius, all of the above! Amazing work Bill. Some day in the future people will be  researching it to find out who manufactured it. 👍👍👍

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 Posted: Fri May 17th, 2019 03:39 am
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Bobby Gaines
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The only thing I can say is Amazing!

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 Posted: Fri May 17th, 2019 04:29 am
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William Dunlap
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I appreciate the positive comments. Thank you.
I have a question. Do you think it would be worthwhile to have it easily convertible to a 4 vane deflector? All that is necessary is to remove the linkage to the bottom row of vanes and devise a method of locking one pair of upper and lower vanes together. Instant 4 vane type deflector.
Cheers,
Bill

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 Posted: Fri May 17th, 2019 09:31 am
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Lane Shirey
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So Coooool. !  Great job Bill.  I just might bid on that one. 

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 Posted: Fri May 17th, 2019 11:53 am
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John Smalley
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amazing craftsmanship Bill, on the question of locking the upper and lower vanes together would be a nice feature.

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 Posted: Fri May 17th, 2019 01:44 pm
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Michael Rathberger
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Fun doesn't begin to describe that Bill...

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 Posted: Fri May 17th, 2019 07:45 pm
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Jeff Montgomery
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wow!!! genius... Way above my reach I'm sure. Love your inventions.

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 Posted: Fri May 17th, 2019 08:18 pm
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Steve Sherwood
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Wow, you got some skills for sure. Very nice.

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 Posted: Fri May 17th, 2019 09:05 pm
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Richard Daugird
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Looks like you took a pile of brass and poured Awesome Sauce all over it...

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 Posted: Fri May 17th, 2019 09:20 pm
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William Dunlap
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Thanks for the kind comments.
I've been trying to post this on ebay and I'm just about to give up on them. Seems they've changed things quite a bit since I last sold something there and it is now a cumbersome cluster of issues.
I can't seem to get a 3 day auction anymore. Quite frankly, I don't need anymore than that since I'm pretty sure that if you aren't a member here, you're not going to know what a deflector is.
My understanding of the rules of BST is that there are no auctions there. Makes sense. less hassles.
So, I'm considering ETSY right now. ebay fees are getting downright stupid.
I'll keep you posted.
Cheers,
Bill

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 Posted: Fri May 17th, 2019 10:14 pm
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Mel Lagarde
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Beautiful craftsmanship.  What an amazing display of your talent. 

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 Posted: Fri May 17th, 2019 10:20 pm
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William Dunlap
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Posted on BST.
B.

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 Posted: Sun May 19th, 2019 07:51 pm
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William Dunlap
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I have come up with some tips for installation of these deflectors. This is a bit late for some I have already shipped, but nonetheless, I recommend reading this in its' entirety to fully understand the nature of the beast.

Cheers,
Bill


12” Coleman Deflector installation tips.

In order for the deflector to work properly, it needs to be installed correctly.
Mount the short straight struts to the motor using 10,2, 4 and 8 o’clock positions. On GE Pancakes, try to use the motor studs first before resorting to the strut mounts. This will make for a much cleaner installation.
Attach the other ends of the struts to the deflector itself and position them as close to the above clock positions.
On my installations, the deflector struts ended up on the back side of the motor struts for the best location. This is a variable depending on the fan you mount this to. Also, the motor struts might be bent forward or backward slightly to get correct pulley alignment.
I suspect each fan might have slightly different installations.
The deflector itself might be off center a bit higher than normal in order for the blade to have adequate clearance with the worm gear bracket which hangs down a little from the periphery of the deflector.
It’s a bit awkward, but position the deflector on the fan and slip the clamps on the struts and tighten them finger tight at first.

Deflector instructions by William Dunlap, on Flickr


Note the relationship between the pulley, belt and blade hub. In order for the belt to clear the fan blade, the pulley will need to be out of alignment with the hub slightly. At the point where the blade is closest to the belt, the clearance should be maintained as indicated above.
In operation, the fan itself might be a little out of balance causing the belt to oscillate. If too great, the blade will catch the belt and wind it up until it breaks. This is why I specifically chose very thin rubber belts. The thicker ones will pull the deflector into the blade causing damage to the blade and deflector. I supply two sizes of belts. If the larger of the two belts just isn’t tight enough to not slip, use the smaller belt. I prefer to not stress the fan bushings in the vertical plane with a tight belt, if at all possible.

Move all around the assembled deflector and examine how much clearance the blade has to the blade. Once you are satisfied that the blade will not contact any part of the deflector, tighten all the strut, clamp and motor fasteners.

Thread the belt around the blade and insert it into the pulley’s groove. This can be enough tension to pull the deflector slightly out of alignment.
On pancake fans, the brass oil return needs to come off. The hub has two grooves cut into it. Use the groove closest to the fan motor for the belt to ride in.

Test by manually spinning the blade.

If the clearance is at the minimum or greater everywhere, then test on lowest speed setting. If the pulley isn’t spinning with the belt and blade, sometimes it just needs a little help the first time. Also, keep oil off the hub, pulley and belts. I clean them with isopropyl alcohol.

Depending on the fan, on the highest setting, the wind can actually pull the belt toward the blade. When this happens, the belt will either come adrift from the pulley, or will be caught by the blade and snapped.

This is why I prefer to run my deflectors on lower speed settings. It’s just safer.

This was an accessory invented over a hundred years ago, and by all accounts was not that successful. It was likely a bit expensive and probably not very forgiving of a careless installation. There are two in existence and only one works. I have not deviated from the original specifications by much in order to preserve the character of this device. Warts and all, as they say.

I’ve tested my deflectors on the period fans I have on hand. Those are Trojan 5310 and 1902 GE Pancake. Other brands and models could have other installation requirements, such as a pulley for rotor shaft. I haven’t had occasion to need these or make them as they will be made specifically for the fan in question.




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