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AFCA Forums > Antique Fan Collectors Association > Post-1950 (Vintage) > Whirlaire Motor Dissasembly??
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AFCA Forums > Antique Fan Collectors Association > Post-1950 (Vintage) > Whirlaire Motor Dissasembly?? | |||||
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| Whirlaire Motor Dissasembly?? | Rating: 
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| Posted: Fri Nov 20th, 2015 05:52 am |
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1st Post |
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Rick Swanson Guest 
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I am trying to open the motor off my 1950-1951 whirlaie. The nuts came off easily but the bolts seem frozen. I am soaking them as I post but I got to wondering if these are actually studs and the shell needs to be pryed apart. Any help from the folks that have been inside these motors would be much appreciated. Attached Image (viewed 676 times):
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| Posted: Fri Nov 20th, 2015 06:01 am |
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2nd Post |
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Stephen Muza Guest 
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Hi Rick! Here is a link that I believe covered what you are look for. If not, let me know and I have other photos once it was apart. Best of luck on the project. http://www.afcaforum.com/forum5/27993.html
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| Posted: Fri Nov 20th, 2015 06:30 am |
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3rd Post |
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Rick Swanson Guest
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Thank you, Thank you Stephen. This is exactly the information I was looking for. I attempted to search old posts but I must have been looking in the wrong place. Before I got rammy and impatient I thought I better ask the membership for help. Again, thanks for your taking the time to reply. I cannot wait to get this whirlaire running, repainted, and into my Westinghouse collection.
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| Posted: Fri Nov 20th, 2015 07:08 am |
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4th Post |
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Stephen Muza Guest
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You are most welcome. I am very glad to have helped some. They certainly have a most unique and distinctive look, while being such quiet, big air movers. Here was my color combination choice, but many would work nicely. http://www.afcaforum.com/forum5/28161.html When you finish, please post photos if you get a chance. Have a good one... Rick Swanson wrote: Thank you, Thank you Stephen. This is exactly the information I was looking for. I attempted to search old posts but I must have been looking in the wrong place. Before I got rammy and impatient I thought I better ask the membership for help. Again, thanks for your taking the time to reply. I cannot wait to get this whirlaire running, repainted, and into my Westinghouse collection.
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| Posted: Wed Nov 25th, 2015 05:10 am |
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5th Post |
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Rick Swanson Guest
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Steven Muza, I am going to have to reread your post instructions. This motor shell is not seperating. The mounting bracket is spinning but no hint that it's gonna give.
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| Posted: Wed Nov 25th, 2015 06:52 am |
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6th Post |
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Stephen Muza Guest
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Hi Rick! Funny how fans have their own way of throwing curve balls at times.  I saw this late, so the (2) motor shell is not separating? Where they split is a very fine line and hard to get started. Once you identify the seam, a razor blade may help make it clearer. Once clear, maybe tapping in (2) thin bladed flat blade screwdrivers opposing each other should help get it started. Maybe even (2) sharp edge knives. Once you see the crack open, it should be able to be wedged apart from there. If you check out the post and photo, maybe this will help too. If not, let me know and I will see if I have other photos that can help. If you can, post a couple photos of where you are now and we can go from there. It will help me see clearer the problem. I'll definitely check this tomorrow... Rick Swanson wrote: Steven Muza, I am going to have to reread your post instructions. This motor shell is not seperating. The mounting bracket is spinning but no hint that it's gonna give.
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| Posted: Wed Nov 25th, 2015 04:13 pm |
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7th Post |
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Rick Swanson Guest
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Thanks again for your help Stephen. I think your right I have to pinpoint where the seam atually is and then work BOTH sides with like a pocket knife. This is my first motor teardown, so nervous about any damage to the shell, etc (from me). This is so ironic that I just recently had some of the best fan club members right in my basement and I did not have this project out on the table ready to look at. I dropped the ball on that one. lol I also wanted to thank you for the wiring diagram you shared. After comparison it showed I had diagramed it like yours. Yours is much better illustrated and easiest to follow. Thanks Last edited on Wed Nov 25th, 2015 04:17 pm by Rick Swanson |
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| Posted: Wed Nov 25th, 2015 04:45 pm |
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8th Post |
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Stephen Muza Guest
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Most welcome Rick, glad to help. You mentioning about forgetting to bring the motor out when you had members there made me smile, I can sure see that kind of stuff happening. I reread my post and remembered better. If you look at the motor from the rear under the handle, you can see a small "lip" or "edge" where the front half is slightly overlapping the rear. This is where I started the separation from with small light easy taps to get the separation started. Take a close look with good light. I then worked in smaller to larger size screwdrivers into the now open seam. Working around the entire motor case allowed it to separate little by little until off completely. Your extra caution in your disassembly process is well warranted, taking your time works best and avoids needless damage. Even though this is your first, I can easily predict there will be more. Although so many motors are different to varying degrees, what you learn here will be 100% applicable to others. Although it would have been quicker and easier if someone had helped, you are far better served doing it yourself. Great attitude, keep pressing on. Take plenty of photos from different angles at each step for reference and extra care of all parts, as they can get up and walk away if not careful. I'll check in throughout the day on your progress. You will get it...  The diagram was posted by another member who took the time to make it nice and easy to read, so credits to him. I usually hand draw quickly for electrical accuracy and so I can make it out easily. Rick Swanson wrote: Thanks again for your help Stephen. I think your right I have to pinpoint where the seam atually is and then work BOTH sides with like a pocket knife. This is my first motor teardown, so nervous about any damage to the shell, etc (from me). This is so ironic that I just recently had some of the best fan club members right in my basement and I did not have this project out on the table ready to look at. I dropped the ball on that one. lol I also wanted to thank you for the wiring diagram you shared. After comparison it showed I had diagramed it like yours. Yours is much better illustrated and easiest to follow. Thanks
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| Posted: Wed Nov 25th, 2015 05:16 pm |
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9th Post |
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Rick Swanson Guest
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Thanks for some good points I have overlooked. Good light and taking pics along the way for future reference. Sometimes I get tunnel visioned and forget to take stopping points and get some pics. I am going out today and pic up a decent set of scredrivers FOR FAN USE ONLY. lol. My thought on breaking into this motor was for cleaning and bearing/wick inspection. Although the motor seemed to be in good shape, it had come in from a dirty environment, and the headwire/fan wiring was very dried out and brittle. I want this fan to be out on my porch when heatwaves here in the midwest , and I want to run for hours on end if need be, and I want it to be last on my worry list. I have been so fortunate to have fans in my collection displays that can be daily runners, only a few I know has one issue or another that will need attention. Those are the ones I may run, but never unattended. GOTTA START SOMEWHERE, so let's get this westy apart. LOL
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| Posted: Wed Nov 25th, 2015 08:17 pm |
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10th Post |
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Lawrence Smith AFCA Member 
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if that housing is still stuck, try fishing a length of strong cord through the vent hole on one side & have it come out on the other--- then hang the assembly & pull gently downward while tapping the motor housing with a rubber mallet-- it might free it up ,Lawrence
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| Posted: Wed Nov 25th, 2015 09:20 pm |
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11th Post |
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Stephen Muza Guest
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Honestly, whenever possible for all of the reasons you listed, thorough interior cleaning, proper wicking lubrication, shim inspection and headwire replacement, getting into the motor is the only and best way to really see what you have to work with. Even more so with expected daily runners seeing duty. I consider this motor disassembly a must for all of the above reasons and better peace of mind. I have also found important for smooth operation, the cleaning of the rotor shaft, particularly paying close attention to the bearing interface locations. Varnish or old, oxidized oil buildup can interfere with the correct mating to the bearings surface causing friction. I have found 0000 Steel Wool and oil perfect to clean the rotor shaft of any such deposits, making for super smooth operation, without any fear of metal removal, reducing the shaft diameter, ruining the bearings to shaft tolerance. Once cleaned, it also allows for a close inspection of the rotor shaft and any possible wear. OK, I'll let you get back to it... PS About the "Good Light"... I noticed this quickly climbs the priority list as a person ages... In your 20's it seems possible to work in near dark. In your 50's, not so much!Rick Swanson wrote: Thanks for some good points I have overlooked. Good light and taking pics along the way for future reference. Sometimes I get tunnel visioned and forget to take stopping points and get some pics. I am going out today and pic up a decent set of scredrivers FOR FAN USE ONLY. lol. My thought on breaking into this motor was for cleaning and bearing/wick inspection. Although the motor seemed to be in good shape, it had come in from a dirty environment, and the headwire/fan wiring was very dried out and brittle. I want this fan to be out on my porch when heatwaves here in the midwest , and I want to run for hours on end if need be, and I want it to be last on my worry list. I have been so fortunate to have fans in my collection displays that can be daily runners, only a few I know has one issue or another that will need attention. Those are the ones I may run, but never unattended. GOTTA START SOMEWHERE, so let's get this westy apart. LOL
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| Posted: Thu Nov 26th, 2015 04:11 am |
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12th Post |
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Rick Swanson Guest
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Thanks Lawrence and Stephen. Your advice and confidence are much appreciated. I can do this. LOL
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| Posted: Wed Dec 16th, 2015 11:31 pm |
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13th Post |
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Rick Swanson Guest
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Hey Stephen, I finally got her apart and your earlier advice helped immencely. Patience was the key word here. Ha ha. My next question is did you replace the headwire and if so what is the best way to go about it. Also, I want to clean the bearings, outside surface of rotor and inside surface of stator. What type of cleaner will work best? I was going to take a q tip to clean the bearings. Not wanting to pull the bearings out of the motor shell. Thanks again for all your help. I am getting closer. LOL Attached Image (viewed 572 times):
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| Posted: Wed Dec 16th, 2015 11:31 pm |
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14th Post |
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Rick Swanson Guest
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Stator Attached Image (viewed 505 times):
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| Posted: Wed Dec 16th, 2015 11:32 pm |
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15th Post |
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Rick Swanson Guest
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Here is what I started with. Attached Image (viewed 556 times):
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| Posted: Thu Dec 17th, 2015 12:14 am |
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16th Post |
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Charles Tedrick AFCA Member 
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I use acetone to clean the bearings as it dissolves the old built up varnish of the oil. I like to polish the bearing contact surfaces of the rotor shafts with blue magic or mothers. When the bearings are cleaned and the shafts are polished and re oiled it will spin like a new motor.
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| Posted: Sat Dec 19th, 2015 01:26 am |
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17th Post |
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Stephen Muza Guest
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Hi Rick! First I would strongly recommend pulling both bearings out for a better cleaning, as they are VERY easy, only a few parts and go back just as easily. (Self aligning) The (2) screws and the cover plate are obvious. After that, there is a metal wicking retainer, the wick and the bearing itself. Since you are at this point, you can better clean/oil the wick and bearing with it apart. You will be glad you did. Once cleaned, you can also soak both bearings in oil while awaiting reassembly.I have seen many cleaner/solvents used for wicks, such as kerosene, WD40, etc. The forum has many more I am sure if you wish to search around. Charles posted good recommendations for the rotor/bearings. I like 0000 fine steel wool and oil to clean the rotor shaft. It does a great job of removing old oxidized oil/varnish without a chance of changing the diameter. You can tell when done, as it feels super smooth as glass. I can't stress enough avoid unnecessary bending of the headwires and generally handle with extreme care. The last thing you want or need is one to break off at the junction where it meets the windings. If you can see which way the original headwires would lay better after soldering and heat shrink tubing, you can use lacing or cord to secure it to the stator. (I have found a curved needle to work well) This will ensure the original wires are protected from any movement, acting as a strain relief. I also try to keep enough original headwire length so if a future need arises, they are not too short to work with. Also pay close attention to how it feeds through the motor housing, as this is necessary when determining where/how they lay and are secured down. Sometimes these things are kind of hard to describe fully and in detail on the fly, so hope the photo helps too. Let me know if any follow up questions arise. You are welcome. It is a nice motor to work on and a very strong and smooth runner. Keep me posted... I am quite certain when you are finished and have it running, it will be well worth your time.Rick Swanson wrote: Hey Stephen, I finally got her apart and your earlier advice helped immencely. Patience was the key word here. Ha ha. My next question is did you replace the headwire and if so what is the best way to go about it. Also, I want to clean the bearings, outside surface of rotor and inside surface of stator. What type of cleaner will work best? I was going to take a q tip to clean the bearings. Not wanting to pull the bearings out of the motor shell. Thanks again for all your help. I am getting closer. LOL Attached Image (viewed 530 times):
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| Posted: Mon Dec 21st, 2015 03:06 am |
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18th Post |
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Rick Swanson Guest
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Have got the headwire to this point. The stub is sticking straight out from the stator and it rigid and brittle. Should I keep exposing wire all the way down? You picture looks like your wire was flexable as it layed to the side. Would love to see some of your pics Stephen at this point in your restore. Thanks again. Attached Image (viewed 487 times):
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| Posted: Mon Dec 21st, 2015 04:08 am |
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19th Post |
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Stephen Muza Guest
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I would not remove any more insulation than is necessary at this point. Try to keep as much length from here as you can. Once you leave enough conductor at the end to solder to, you can cover the rest down to the stator with a piece of heat shrink tubing to protect the old insulation. Not sure how much soldering you have done, but a really good cleaning of the conductor with sand paper will remove most of the oxidation that will cause soldering adherence problems. Until you get clean copper, the solder will have problems sticking. When I layed my wires down, I followed their natural path as found. If you hold the stator close to the motor casing that the headwires feed through in position, it should give you a better idea of how they need to go. I wish I could give you more photos of that, but checked and do not have the right angle. I'll put up the ones I do have, but do not think they will help at this point, sorry. I know it is much harder for you having to read and interpret, but we can press on. Remember to put on your sections of heat shrink tubing on the new headwires, keeping them away from the heat until after you finished soldering. You can then add a larger diameter heat shrink over the (3) newly soldering joints, that already have the smaller diameter heat shrink in place. If you are not fully comfortable, I would definitely practice on scrap wire. Naturally you are welcome, it is tough covering something like this in enough detail to be explicit. This all sounds harder than it is, so don't be put off. I still feel you will get there and then be looking for the next project! Best of luck and I'll be checking in, or PM me if I can help. Rick Swanson wrote: Have got the headwire to this point. The stub is sticking straight out from the stator and it rigid and brittle. Should I keep exposing wire all the way down? You picture looks like your wire was flexable as it layed to the side. Would love to see some of your pics Stephen at this point in your restore. Thanks again. Attached Image (viewed 466 times):
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| Posted: Mon Dec 21st, 2015 04:09 am |
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20th Post |
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Stephen Muza Guest
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I know these were not the angles that would be of more help. Attached Image (viewed 428 times):
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