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| Moderated by: Steve Cunningham, Stan Adams, Rod Rogers | Page:   1 2 |
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| Brass Drive Rivets | Rate Topic |
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| Posted: Sat Mar 2nd, 2013 08:53 pm |
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41st Post |
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Russ Huber AFCA Member 
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Michael Rathberger wrote:Well, finish the story. So were you LARGER than him and he caught up to you and put a dent in your head with the 7 iron? Not s lot more to it Russ, I find the best way to handle it is to walk out there and find out what the guy wants. Settles things pretty quick. It was an accident anyway, I was playing to layup 5 yards short of the green, Still don't know how I hit a draw out of a lie with the ball below my feet, but it sure was pretty. The real story is how I managed to have an eagle putt of 25 feet and walked off with par. Rathberger golf, turn birdies into bogeys, pars into doubles, and eagles into pars all because of a stupid flat club. I am dumber than a bag of hammers when it comes to golf. The terminology you use for most part is like a foreign language to me, with exception of the word...par. I went golfing once, this is because the guy I was with insisted we do it. The course was 9 holes. I don't talk about the first 8 holes. I did however par my last hole. So, I learned some hard lessons in the first 8 holes. The lesson I learned that was most important was Golf sucks. I did however dig buzzing around in the golf cart.  Last edited on Sat Mar 2nd, 2013 08:54 pm by Russ Huber |
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| Posted: Sat Mar 2nd, 2013 11:50 pm |
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42nd Post |
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Kim Frank AFCA Member 
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Dustin, the parts went out yesterday. I threw in some brass rivets after I had everything boxed up, so they are loose in there. File them down to a point and they'll work for securing the side info plate and switch plate on your coin ops.....
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| Posted: Sun Mar 3rd, 2013 11:29 pm |
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43rd Post |
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Dave Dalsin Guest
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I just use round head .092 brass rivets. Drill the hole out to size, cut the rivet to length, flatten the rivet in the center to make it wedge into the hole and then tap it into place. Once you test it out it works like a charm.
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| Posted: Mon Mar 11th, 2013 10:14 pm |
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44th Post |
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Steve Stephens Guest 
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I thought I would add some photos here for future reference. I snapped these yesterday when looking through some of Bill Voigt's fan collection/parts. I'd call this a "drive nail" Attached Image (viewed 1035 times):
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| Posted: Mon Mar 11th, 2013 10:15 pm |
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45th Post |
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Steve Stephens Guest
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And how about "drive pins" or "drive rivets" for these which is what I think Dustin was looking for on his initial post. These and the one in the previous photo are made of steel. Attached Image (viewed 976 times): Last edited on Mon Mar 11th, 2013 10:16 pm by Steve Stephens |
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| Posted: Tue Mar 12th, 2013 12:57 am |
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46th Post |
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Steve Cunningham Administrator 
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That is a Round Wood Drive Screw. Mostly used in the furniture business.
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| Posted: Tue Mar 12th, 2013 01:00 am |
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47th Post |
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Steve Cunningham Administrator
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Those are Round Type U Drive Screws.
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| Posted: Tue Mar 12th, 2013 01:27 am |
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48th Post |
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Steve Stephens Guest
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I will have to remember those names Steve. I would love to know what they were called in the 1890-1930 period. Maybe the same??
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| Posted: Tue Mar 12th, 2013 03:04 am |
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49th Post |
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Steve Cunningham Administrator
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I think the "U"Drive Screws came out in the 1930's, maybe later. The threads were rolled on using two dies. The Round Head Drive Wood Screws probably date to the 1950's. when I started in the 1960's there no wood drive screws in inventory. I only had one request for those in the 1970's. And that guy was reproducing an antique piece of furniture. I think the minimum order of 100,000 screws turned him off.
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| Posted: Tue Mar 12th, 2013 03:18 am |
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50th Post |
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Tom Dreesen AFCA Member 
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Steve Cunningham wrote: I think the "U"Drive Screws came out in the 1930's, maybe later. The threads were rolled on using two dies. The Round Head Drive Wood Screws probably date to the 1950's. when I started in the 1960's there no wood drive screws in inventory. I only had one request for those in the 1970's. And that guy was reproducing an antique piece of furniture. I think the minimum order of 100,000 screws turned him off. My Trojan 8012 CF has them so you are off at least a couple of decades.
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| Posted: Tue Mar 12th, 2013 04:37 am |
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51st Post |
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Steve Cunningham Administrator
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I looked and found no specific history on drive screws. They were made by a process called thread rolling. I don't think that came out till later.
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| Posted: Tue Mar 12th, 2013 02:33 pm |
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52nd Post |
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Randy Rohr Guest 
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Steve Cunningham wrote: I looked and found no specific history on drive screws. They were made by a process called thread rolling. I don't think that came out till later. That's really a process similar to knurling, so in theory it could have existed at that time. RR
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| Posted: Tue Apr 2nd, 2013 02:39 am |
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53rd Post |
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Steve Stephens Guest
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Mike Lackey, Solid BRASS drive pins: http://www.highoaksrr.com/forsale/KTE-Drive-Screws/kte-drive-screw.html “O”X 3/16 LONG SOLID BRASS DRIVE SCREWS 1,000pcs THESE ARE NOT PLATED, THESE ARE SOLID BRASS
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| Posted: Tue Apr 2nd, 2013 03:09 am |
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54th Post |
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George Durbin AFCA Member 
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If someone buys a bag of those drive rivits, I will buy 50 or 100, to help control costs!!
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| Posted: Tue Apr 2nd, 2013 06:22 am |
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55th Post |
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Mike Lackey Guest
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Steve Stephens wrote:Mike Lackey, REAL BRASS!!! REALLY!
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| Posted: Tue Apr 2nd, 2013 06:30 am |
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56th Post |
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Tom Dreesen AFCA Member
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George Durbin wrote: If someone buys a bag of those drive rivits, I will buy 50 or 100, to help control costs!! I'll chip in.
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| Posted: Tue Apr 2nd, 2013 06:33 am |
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57th Post |
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Mike Lackey Guest
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I'm looking into it and will see the cost.
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| Posted: Tue Apr 2nd, 2013 09:12 am |
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58th Post |
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Steve Cunningham Administrator
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Never say never. I don't know what purpose those would have. You'd have to drive them into brass or bronze. Iron, steel, and aluminum are dissimilar metals. Over time that would cause a Galvanic Reaction aka corrosion.
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| Posted: Tue Apr 2nd, 2013 03:21 pm |
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59th Post |
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Tom Dreesen AFCA Member
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Steve Cunningham wrote: Never say never. I don't know what purpose those would have. You'd have to drive them into brass or bronze. Iron, steel, and aluminum are dissimilar metals. Over time that would cause a Galvanic Reaction aka corrosion. Let's hope that most fan cases don't have current flowing through them.
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| Posted: Tue Apr 2nd, 2013 04:00 pm |
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60th Post |
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Mike Lackey Guest
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Steve The pins I have removed, some where all brass. Some were steel and besides what's the difference between an oil wick reservoir in brass screwed into a cast iron motor casing verses a brass pin?
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| Posted: Tue Apr 2nd, 2013 04:36 pm |
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61st Post |
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Dustin Meyer AFCA Member 
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Mike since I started this thread I'll buy some as well, just let me know the cost. Thanks for researching this.
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| Posted: Tue Apr 2nd, 2013 04:36 pm |
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62nd Post |
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Mike Lackey Guest
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NP looking forward to that! Let me know
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| Posted: Tue Apr 2nd, 2013 06:03 pm |
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63rd Post |
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Mike Lackey Guest
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Their answer: I HAVE ABOUT 12 BAGS OF 1000 EACH AVAILABLE AT $20.00 PER BAG PLUS A ONE TIME SHIPPING CHARGE OF $5.00 IN THE U.S.A. PER ORDER.
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| Posted: Tue Apr 2nd, 2013 06:44 pm |
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64th Post |
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George Durbin AFCA Member
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ill buy 100 from you. give me price and shipping or if your going to pig pickin or fan fair...
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| Posted: Tue Apr 2nd, 2013 07:11 pm |
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65th Post |
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Mike Lackey Guest
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I'll get them and then divvy them up to whomever wants some. :)
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| Posted: Tue Apr 2nd, 2013 07:16 pm |
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66th Post |
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Steve Cunningham Administrator
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No current needed. It happens over time. If you see the GE World Fair Fans, they riveted an aluminum motor tag onto a steel base. The aluminum tags are either gone or badly corroded. You could put anti-seize compound on the rivets to slow it down. But it would be much simpler to use a brass rivet.
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| Posted: Tue Apr 2nd, 2013 07:19 pm |
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67th Post |
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Mike Lackey Guest
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Exactly!! a solid Brass rivet or u type Screw ;)
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| Posted: Tue Apr 2nd, 2013 10:10 pm |
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68th Post |
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Tom Dreesen AFCA Member
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Steve Cunningham wrote: No current needed. It happens over time. If you see the GE World Fair Fans, they riveted an aluminum motor tag onto a steel base. The aluminum tags are either gone or badly corroded. You could put anti-seize compound on the rivets to slow it down. But it would be much simpler to use a brass rivet. You lost me there Steve. What the experts say: http://www.corrosion-doctors.org/Forms-galvanic/galvanic-corrosion.htm
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| Posted: Tue Apr 2nd, 2013 11:10 pm |
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69th Post |
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George Durbin AFCA Member
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Doesnt emerson use brass into steel on their tags?
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| Posted: Tue Apr 2nd, 2013 11:49 pm |
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70th Post |
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Mike Lackey Guest
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George Durbin wrote:Doesnt emerson use brass into steel on their tags? That has been my experience each time I remove one it's brass.
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| Posted: Wed Apr 3rd, 2013 02:42 am |
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71st Post |
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Tom Newcity Guest 
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Mike Lackey wrote: Their answer: I HAVE ABOUT 12 BAGS OF 1000 EACH AVAILABLE AT $20.00 PER BAG I'll take a bag of them also Mike. Just let me know the total.
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| Posted: Wed Apr 3rd, 2013 05:15 am |
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72nd Post |
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Mike Lackey Guest
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I'm getting one bag and divvying it up but I think there will be plenty.
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| Posted: Wed Apr 3rd, 2013 05:29 am |
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73rd Post |
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Steve Stephens Guest
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Mike Lackey wrote:George Durbin wrote: From what I see the rivets holding the Emerson motor tags are made of brass and quite small up through teh 27 series then changed to a larger headed steel rivet on the 28 and 29 series and probably afterwards. Below; steel rivets on a 1930 Emerson Attached Image (viewed 688 times): Last edited on Wed Apr 3rd, 2013 05:43 am by Steve Stephens |
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| Posted: Wed Apr 3rd, 2013 05:30 am |
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74th Post |
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Mike Lackey Guest
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That makes since, since most of my fans are pre 27
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