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Interest thread for reproduction switches.  Rate Topic 
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 Posted: Sat Jun 18th, 2016 08:01 pm
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Josh Taylor
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After talking with Bill Reynolds, we're going to start making these very soon. We're in the process of ordering the necessary materials and want to get a rough count on these to know how many should be made. After looking at the material cost and the many hours involved, the cost per switch should be between $130 - $150. We will try to keep it close to the $130 mark as that is what Bill sold them for years ago. The difference will be depending on the inflation of materials. If you're wanting a switch please just post in the thread and include the quantity. This is not a pre-sale but please do not post if you are on the fence. We don't want to spend the time and money and end up with switches just sitting around. I've included a picture of the last batch Bill made to give you and idea of what these should look like. 

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 Posted: Sat Jun 18th, 2016 08:22 pm
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Chris A. Campbell
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What fan does this go to? Have never seen this type of switch.

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 Posted: Sat Jun 18th, 2016 09:19 pm
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Stephen Sanders
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Ornate Emerson Cf like CF-14, CF-20 and CF-28.  It fits some others as well but I am  uncertain of the complete list

Last edited on Sat Jun 18th, 2016 09:21 pm by Stephen Sanders

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 Posted: Sun Jun 19th, 2016 04:52 am
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Chad Hunter
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Count me in for one

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 Posted: Sun Jun 19th, 2016 06:05 am
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Cory Baughn
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Can someone confirm all the models this switch fits? I am definitely in for one, and may grab two if it includes quite a few fans I am interested in eventually acquiring in my lifetime. :up:

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 Posted: Sun Jun 19th, 2016 06:26 am
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David Hoatson
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I'll take three.

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 Posted: Sun Jun 19th, 2016 05:54 pm
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David Hoatson
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What are the dimensions of the switch? It may possibly fit other non-Emerson models, like early DC fans, maybe with a different shaft.   Ceramic diameter & thickness, mounting hole spacing?
Do you have a picture of the other side to see how the wires connect?  Is it 3 wires, 2-speeds?
Thanks. 

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 Posted: Sun Jun 19th, 2016 10:08 pm
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Dennis Parmley
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I will take one and THANKS.  Dennis

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 Posted: Sun Jun 19th, 2016 10:23 pm
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Josh Taylor
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David Hoatson wrote: What are the dimensions of the switch? It may possibly fit other non-Emerson models, like early DC fans, maybe with a different shaft.   Ceramic diameter & thickness, mounting hole spacing?
Do you have a picture of the other side to see how the wires connect?  Is it 3 wires, 2-speeds?
Thanks. 

David the switches are copied using a mold that are filled with epoxy resin that is used for stamping brass. It has a 20,000 psi tensil strength. The diameter across is 2.0115 inches. The thickness is .5060 inches on the flat part of the switch not including the raised areas for the switch stops. The distance between the mounting holes is approximately 1.5925 inches. So far I have mounted it in a cf-28, Trojan and even a fern leaf.so the mounts are standard CF spacing. The switch can be wired for on/off or two speed. With a small bit of alteration it could also be made to run 3 speeds though that would not be correct as a reproduction but could be done. I've included the additional pictures you've requested and also one of the original. 




Last edited on Sun Jun 19th, 2016 10:25 pm by Josh Taylor

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 Posted: Sun Jun 19th, 2016 10:46 pm
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David Hoatson
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Very nice! It's amazing what some members are capable of doing. 

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 Posted: Mon Jun 20th, 2016 04:32 am
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Geoff Dunaway
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Stephen Sanders wrote: Ornate Emerson Cf like CF-14, CF-20 and CF-28.  It fits some others as well but I am  uncertain of the complete list Early Trojan ceiling fans sported this switch on their nose as well

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 Posted: Mon Jun 20th, 2016 07:24 am
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Russ Huber
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Geoff Dunaway wrote: Early Trojan ceiling fans sported this switch on their nose as well

Attached Image (viewed 2231 times):

Wes012.jpg

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 Posted: Mon Jun 20th, 2016 07:24 am
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Russ Huber
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.

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 Posted: Mon Jun 20th, 2016 07:25 am
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Russ Huber
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.

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 Posted: Mon Jun 20th, 2016 10:28 am
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Jeff Whitfield
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I'd like one.

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 Posted: Mon Jun 20th, 2016 11:08 am
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Cory Baughn
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I know Ill take two, and maybe three. Funds will dictate that at the time of arrival. How long are you expecting before you have them done?

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 Posted: Mon Jun 20th, 2016 06:13 pm
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Chris Kelly
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interested in 2

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 Posted: Mon Jun 20th, 2016 07:25 pm
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Dan Nguyen
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I'd like one.

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 Posted: Mon Jun 20th, 2016 09:20 pm
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Josh Taylor
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Cory Baughn wrote: I know Ill take two, and maybe three. Funds will dictate that at the time of arrival. How long are you expecting before you have them done?
We are in the process of getting the materials. As soon as we have them, we will start. Those that have posted that they want one will be contacted and have first right. The rest will go up in a sell thread as they're completed. Doing this as a side project and not working on them full time, it's difficult to give an exact time frame. I will update with a time frame once all materials are in hand. 

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 Posted: Mon Jun 20th, 2016 11:25 pm
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Andrew Block
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I don't have any fans that take this particular switch but I've always wondered how the handle was isolated from the electrical current with the whole thing being metal.

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 Posted: Tue Jun 21st, 2016 12:10 am
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David Hoatson
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Andrew Block wrote: I don't have any fans that take this particular switch but I've always wondered how the handle was isolated from the electrical current with the whole thing being metal.
If you wired the neutral to the center of the switch and the hot to the stator, then you should be OK, at least by 1920's standards. Neutral rarely gets above a volt or two. 

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 Posted: Tue Jun 21st, 2016 05:14 am
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Kevin Lee Clark
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I'll take one.

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 Posted: Tue Jun 21st, 2016 11:11 pm
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Chuck Abernathy
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Count me in for one, Josh!Thanks!

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 Posted: Wed Jun 22nd, 2016 01:35 am
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Stan Adams
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I would be interested in one Josh.

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 Posted: Wed Jun 22nd, 2016 04:12 am
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Andrew Block
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David Hoatson wrote: Andrew Block wrote: I don't have any fans that take this particular switch but I've always wondered how the handle was isolated from the electrical current with the whole thing being metal.
If you wired the neutral to the center of the switch and the hot to the stator, then you should be OK, at least by 1920's standards. Neutral rarely gets above a volt or two. 
But if the fan was on, wouldn't the switch handle be live? Not a great thing to try to turn the fan off when you're cold from just getting out of the tub.

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 Posted: Wed Jun 22nd, 2016 04:55 am
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David Hoatson
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Andrew wrote: But if the fan was on, wouldn't the switch handle be live? Not a great thing to try to turn the fan off when you're cold from just getting out of the tub.

Andrew, certainly, having a conductive metal handle connected to the AC power would never be allowed today. Even back then, it was dangerous.

Our AC power has a hot (black wire), a neutral (white wire),and ground (green). Neutral is connected to ground in your home breaker box or out on the pole. This keeps neutral close enough to 0 volts as to not be dangerous. However, you won't see me touching it.  If it were my fan, I would make sure the neutral got connected to the switch. Also, I would paint the switch handle with clear electrical lacquer.  This will give it several thousand volts of insulation. 

When the fan is on, the switch handle would still be close to 0 volts. The stator coil would see the full 110 volts.

Last edited on Wed Jun 22nd, 2016 04:58 am by David Hoatson

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 Posted: Wed Jun 22nd, 2016 05:49 pm
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Geoff Dunaway
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 I could put 3 of those to use at least , great project.

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 Posted: Thu Jun 23rd, 2016 01:04 am
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Josh Taylor
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David Hoatson wrote: Andrew wrote: But if the fan was on, wouldn't the switch handle be live? Not a great thing to try to turn the fan off when you're cold from just getting out of the tub.

Andrew, certainly, having a conductive metal handle connected to the AC power would never be allowed today. Even back then, it was dangerous.

Our AC power has a hot (black wire), a neutral (white wire),and ground (green). Neutral is connected to ground in your home breaker box or out on the pole. This keeps neutral close enough to 0 volts as to not be dangerous. However, you won't see me touching it.  If it were my fan, I would make sure the neutral got connected to the switch. Also, I would paint the switch handle with clear electrical lacquer.  This will give it several thousand volts of insulation. 

When the fan is on, the switch handle would still be close to 0 volts. The stator coil would see the full 110 volts.

The handle on the key is insulated. Once the cover is on and you insert the key (part that sticks out you turn) you're safe from being shocked. The originals had some type of Bakelite on them. The reason you see them just brass is because the insulating material became brittle and disentegrated at some point in its life. It is perfectly fine to hook the hot to the switch. 

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 Posted: Thu Jun 23rd, 2016 01:28 am
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David Hoatson
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Josh,

So this switch used to have plastic or hard rubber, but now it's cracked off? Makes sense. I would still wire the neutral to the switch and not the hot just to be extra safe. 

Attached Image (viewed 1667 times):

image.jpeg

Last edited on Thu Jun 23rd, 2016 01:30 am by David Hoatson

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 Posted: Thu Jun 23rd, 2016 01:30 am
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David Hoatson
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This is the terminal board from a circa 1920 Hunter C-18. Note the two colors of screws, silver for neutral and gold for hot, just like today. 

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image.jpeg

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 Posted: Thu Jun 23rd, 2016 02:07 pm
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Rick Huckabee
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I will buy 1 or 2 if available . Thanks for doing this project.

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 Posted: Fri Jun 24th, 2016 11:51 am
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Evan Atkinson
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I will buy one, please and thanks!

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 Posted: Fri Jun 24th, 2016 10:15 pm
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Stephen Davis
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I would also like one. Thanks!

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 Posted: Wed Jul 13th, 2016 09:37 pm
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Josh Taylor
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Update: Most of the materials have arrived. Some parts have been made. Bill and I are getting together this weekend to make more parts. I'll update progress as its made.

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 Posted: Fri Jul 15th, 2016 08:34 pm
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Dan Nguyen
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As I said, I will buy one.

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 Posted: Sat Jul 16th, 2016 12:03 am
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Todd Christensen
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I would take one

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 Posted: Tue Aug 2nd, 2016 08:14 pm
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Dan Nguyen
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I'm still waiting to buy a

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 Posted: Tue Aug 2nd, 2016 11:33 pm
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Josh Taylor
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Dan Nguyen wrote: I'm still waiting to buy aDan, We're currently making the parts. All parts are being made by hand so it is going to take some time but we are working on this daily to try and complete these as fast as possibly. Thank you for your patience. I will start to contact everyone who has posted interest as soon these are ready. Josh. 

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 Posted: Wed Aug 3rd, 2016 04:28 pm
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Rick Huckabee
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I'd like to have 2 for sure ..... if any left over then I would buy more just to have extra

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 Posted: Thu Aug 4th, 2016 12:53 am
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Bill Hoehn
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Josh, 

I can use two more when available.  Here are some of the uses---one of which is less common.

First the CF-28,

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