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| Moderated by: Steve Cunningham, Stan Adams, Rod Rogers | Page:   1 2 |
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| Diehl Badges | Rate Topic |
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| Posted: Tue Dec 1st, 2020 05:27 am |
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41st Post |
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Chris A. Campbell Guest
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Bill has worked with brass much more than I have and would know more tricks. In my situation bending 260 .015 is not providing an attractive enough corner so switching to 360 which ironically arrived today and sitting on the counter still in packaging. On a separate situation working with 3/32 260 flat rod. Bends greater than 90 become difficult and with leverage can get 180 bend although once metal snapped. Annealed cherry red with MAPP it is softer and can get 180 degree bend but do have edges flare out. The 260 is McMurray brass. Other manufacturers may have a more workable 260.
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| Posted: Tue Dec 1st, 2020 05:32 am |
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42nd Post |
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Louis Luu AFCA Member
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Chris...I appreciate all feedback. William knows his stuff and I appreciate his experience. I would try both just to gain some experience and feel for the brass.
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| Posted: Thu Dec 3rd, 2020 08:06 am |
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43rd Post |
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Louis Luu AFCA Member
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Dents removed and solder removed. Ready to make the wax mold next. A light spray helps...very light releaser on the metal will ease in the removal without sticking/damage to the surface texture. Also...the dimple on the "i" has been raised...lightly punched out.  Last edited on Thu Dec 3rd, 2020 08:17 am by Louis Luu |
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| Posted: Thu Dec 3rd, 2020 10:48 am |
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44th Post |
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Richard Daugird AFCA Member 
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Thanks Louis.
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| Posted: Thu Dec 3rd, 2020 05:16 pm |
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45th Post |
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Louis Luu AFCA Member
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This is the overall design of the press plate...I think this will work. the drill hole will need to move to the side instead of the top to facilitate air escape. Also...a light oil around the two halves before pressing to aid in the pressing of the brass sheet. Any feedback would be greatly appreciated. My plan is to first do a casting of the badge itself without making the press. I will send this to Rick for his approval and feedback. If he is happy...skip all this nonesense. Bronze will polish up like brass and when "aged" it is hard to tell anyway. Bronze can also be nickel plated. My J.Stone badge will hopefully be done this way...too much work. The original is nickel plated. Then...if casted badge does not work out...make the press...more trial and error.  Last edited on Thu Dec 3rd, 2020 05:18 pm by Louis Luu |
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| Posted: Thu Dec 3rd, 2020 05:20 pm |
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46th Post |
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Chris A. Campbell Guest
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Louis, What are you using to produce the mold for stamping?
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| Posted: Thu Dec 3rd, 2020 05:22 pm |
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47th Post |
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Louis Luu AFCA Member
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Looks fun. I like doing this for now. Hopefully...I will only need to cast the badge and not make the press. The press can be made but I have no idea how the badge will turn out. With the casted badge...all the details will be there. The only challenge right now is the badge is thin. Will probably need to make it a tad bit thicker for casting. This will not be noticeable from the front...once badge is mounted on cage. Richard Daugird wrote: Thanks Louis.
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| Posted: Thu Dec 3rd, 2020 05:27 pm |
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48th Post |
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Louis Luu AFCA Member
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I have been using wax...melted in oven with a releaser. Once this is done...carefully remove the wax mold and make ther outer shell from a slurry...paris/clay...what ever the store carries near me. I have no idea what it is exactly...but it works just fine. Then I dust the outside with fine sand for structural support. Let dry...then bake upside down to let wax melt out. The shell is only good for one time use. Metal is poured into shell with a release hole design and broken to remove the casted metal. Chris A. Campbell wrote: Louis,
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| Posted: Thu Dec 3rd, 2020 05:32 pm |
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49th Post |
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Louis Luu AFCA Member
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Chris...I have the option of both bronze and steel. The reason for using bronze from what I was told is that it is used for casters who want fine detail. Steel for structural purpose. Steel is unlike cast iron...ductility and strength is higher but is softer than cast iron? Cast iron is not ductile but will crack. This is all I have right now. I have polished some of the bronze parts just to see what it would look like...to me...looks like brass...my opinion. I have sent Don Tener one of my gearbox...he will most likely polish them and put his gear test them. I will wait for him to post the photo when polished....I don't have a high end polisher. Chris A. Campbell wrote: Louis, Last edited on Thu Dec 3rd, 2020 07:35 pm by Louis Luu |
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| Posted: Thu Dec 3rd, 2020 05:33 pm |
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50th Post |
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Louis Luu AFCA Member
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The main difference I see in bronze is bronze is much harder than brass.
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| Posted: Thu Dec 3rd, 2020 06:12 pm |
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51st Post |
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Louis Luu AFCA Member
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Chris...thank you. I learned something new. Stupid me...there is such a thing as high build primer. I have been using regular primer to build up the thickness and sanding in between to make sure...would have save me a whole lot of time knowing there is such a thing. Last edited on Thu Dec 3rd, 2020 11:15 pm by Louis Luu |
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| Posted: Fri Dec 18th, 2020 06:45 pm |
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52nd Post |
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George Durbin AFCA Member 
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Hi Louis! I would gladly buy 2 ecks and 2 Diehl badge! I hope this helps with cost! As I read your post, I swear it looks like your having fun! Geo... Last edited on Fri Dec 18th, 2020 06:46 pm by George Durbin |
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| Posted: Fri Dec 18th, 2020 06:47 pm |
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53rd Post |
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Louis Luu AFCA Member
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Yes...I like learning how to make parts for fans. But the machining stuff and electrical...that I will leave to the professional. Out of my league!!!
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| Posted: Fri Dec 18th, 2020 09:07 pm |
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54th Post |
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Richard Daugird AFCA Member
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I have a friend who is an expert machinist with 60 years experience. He made some Dayton Toilet Bowl oscillator necks last year: https://www.afcaforum.com/view_topic.php?id=56964&forum_id=2
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| Posted: Fri Dec 18th, 2020 09:07 pm |
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55th Post |
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Richard Daugird AFCA Member
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https://www.afcaforum.com/view_topic.php?id=56964&forum_id=2
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| Posted: Sat Dec 19th, 2020 08:37 pm |
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56th Post |
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David A Cherry AFCA Member 
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Rick Powell wrote: Louis they need to be put in a punch press to achieved the necessary force to form them, I have access to them but pretty sure if you check around the Redlands area you will locate one.You don’t need a punch press...A simple Hydraulic bottle jack will work, The brass will be very thin. You will need to allow for this.. If my memory serves me correctly I think it’s around 6% Stretch.. The brass will also need to be annealed....400° for an hour should do it...
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| Posted: Sat Dec 19th, 2020 08:41 pm |
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57th Post |
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Louis Luu AFCA Member
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David A Cherry wrote: Rick Powell wrote:Louis they need to be put in a punch press to achieved the necessary force to form them, I have access to them but pretty sure if you check around the Redlands area you will locate one.You don’t need a punch press...A simple Hydraulic bottle jack will work, The brass will be very thin. You will need to allow for this.. If my memory serves me correctly I think it’s around 6% Stretch.. The brass will also need to be annealed....400° for an hour should do it... Thank you...I will add this to my notebook. I look forward to the challenge. David...quick question...do you think oiling the rims of the press will help during alleviate stress to the brass?
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| Posted: Sat Dec 19th, 2020 09:41 pm |
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58th Post |
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William Dunlap AFCA Member 
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Louis, If the metals tears during the pressing, you may need a two or even three step pressing. Intermediate pressings preform the metal so that there's less stress during the final pressing. You may even need to re-anneal between steps. Cheers, Bill
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| Posted: Sat Dec 19th, 2020 09:43 pm |
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59th Post |
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Louis Luu AFCA Member
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William Dunlap wrote: Louis, Thank you...I will make a two stage mold just in case. Thanks.
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