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| Moderated by: Steve Cunningham, Stan Adams, Rod Rogers |
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| BMY speed lever tab | Rating: 
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| Posted: Sun Aug 29th, 2021 05:01 am |
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1st Post |
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Brice Nagelmaker AFCA Member 
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I need the insulated tab (bakelite?) for speed lever on a G.E.bmy. Wife doesn't trust my liquid tape repair.
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| Posted: Sun Aug 29th, 2021 05:28 am |
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2nd Post |
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Russ Huber AFCA Member 
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GE KNIFE SWITCH COVERS - Pre-1950 (Antique) - Antique Fan Collectors Association - AFCA Forums
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| Posted: Sun Aug 29th, 2021 02:37 pm |
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3rd Post |
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David Kilnapp AFCA Member
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Darryl Hudson does a first class job putting new bakelite covers on those brass switch levers. Very reasonable and you can't tell it from an original.
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| Posted: Mon Aug 30th, 2021 02:12 am |
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4th Post |
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Brice Nagelmaker AFCA Member
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thanks very much everyone.
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| Posted: Mon Aug 30th, 2021 02:13 am |
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5th Post |
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Dave McManaman AFCA Member 
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Brice: If you decide to go with the GE knife switch cover rather than bakelite, I'd be happy to mail one to you gratis. I picked up a 24 pack this past Spring and will never use them all. The one on the left, which I think would fit your needs, is 1/2" wide, 1 1/2" long, and 1/16" high. Last edited on Mon Aug 30th, 2021 03:59 am by Dave McManaman |
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| Posted: Mon Aug 30th, 2021 02:22 am |
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6th Post |
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Russ Huber AFCA Member
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Exposed switch lever - Pre-1950 (Antique) - Antique Fan Collectors Association - AFCA Forums
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| Posted: Mon Aug 30th, 2021 03:44 am |
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7th Post |
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Russ Huber AFCA Member
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If anyone wants to invest a little jing, get real involved, and make their own, you need one good switch lever with intact unworn insulator on the end. Order a 2 part epoxy putty to make a mold pressing the good switch lever into the putty so the lever insulator is recessed flush with the top of the putty. You then remove the knife switch lever from the mold to harden. You would then use a 2 part non-conductive BLACK resin epoxy used to encapsulate electronic boards. You spray a releasing agent(Pam cooking spray) into the cured mold of the switch lever and simply place the switch lever into the mold. Mix a small amount of the 2 part black resin epoxy and pour it into the small mold cavity where the switch lever insulator would be. Fill it to the top flush and let it cure.  Amazon.com: Alumilite Amazing Mold Putty Kit Epoxyseal 9000 Electronic Grade Potting Epoxy Resin: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific It would be nice if we could cut a mold into a block of nylon, but oh well.  Last edited on Mon Aug 30th, 2021 03:46 am by Russ Huber |
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| Posted: Mon Aug 30th, 2021 10:07 am |
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8th Post |
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Lane Shirey AFCA Member 
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Adding to Russ’s post, you can make a mold of sorts out of a stiff cardboard similar to file folder material. Then mold your own with JB weld. There are several good old posts here on the forum that you can search for. Best success with it!
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| Posted: Mon Aug 30th, 2021 01:28 pm |
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9th Post |
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David Kilnapp AFCA Member
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Nothing against the posters above (and very generous of Lane too!) but I prefer to mail the lever to Darryl and a week later it comes back looking like this: Darryl also does a fine job with the slightly different Emerson switch covers too!
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| Posted: Mon Aug 30th, 2021 03:36 pm |
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10th Post |
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Steven P Dempsey Guest 
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Delrin is a close match to Baklite
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| Posted: Mon Aug 30th, 2021 03:43 pm |
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11th Post |
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John Fengel AFCA Member 
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Steven P Dempsey wrote: Delrin is a close match to Baklite How do you replace one using Delrin? John
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| Posted: Mon Aug 30th, 2021 03:45 pm |
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12th Post |
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David Kilnapp AFCA Member
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That's what Darryl uses to make his replacements.
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| Posted: Tue Aug 31st, 2021 01:35 am |
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13th Post |
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Chris A. Campbell Guest
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Russ Huber wrote: If anyone wants to invest a little jing, get real involved, and make their own, you need one good switch lever with intact unworn insulator on the end. Order a 2 part epoxy putty to make a mold pressing the good switch lever into the putty so the lever insulator is recessed flush with the top of the putty. You then remove the knife switch lever from the mold to harden. You would then use a 2 part non-conductive BLACK resin epoxy used to encapsulate electronic boards. You spray a releasing agent(Pam cooking spray) into the cured mold of the switch lever and simply place the switch lever into the mold. Mix a small amount of the 2 part black resin epoxy and pour it into the small mold cavity where the switch lever insulator would be. Fill it to the top flush and let it cure. For a one time need Darryl is best approach. For anyone looking to work with resins will add the following: Russ is correct with this approach. Molds should be flexible such as silicone or the soft mold putty. It is best to have a mold that can pull away from the cast resin part vs cast resin pull away from something hard such JB Weld Quick stick which is good for a pattern. Something small like a lever is best to router out a cavity in 1x2” hardwood and pinned for consistent alignment. Creates hard shell that precisely realigns while containing flexible mold. I use an oil based release although haven’t tried Pam. PTFE release will leave white residue, silicone release does not work with silicone based molds. Assumed silicone release would be for silicone, but it is silicone which defeats the purpose. Lots of 2 parts resins but best is a fast 5 minute cure. Medicine cup filled to 7.5ml for each part will be plenty for switch tip. I use the alumlite black dye to color. Popsicle stick with half drop on end and mixed in along with activating resin. Once cup activates and warms pour into each half shell, align pins and it is cast. Alumilite sells a quickset pure black resin. In regards to coloring resin can use acrylic paint too such as the $2 craft paints. The dye takes less, but more color choices with acrylic. With both once >5% added the resin does not cure as hard. Resin can be mixed activated with dye. When adding acrylic paints the resin must first be activated before adding color. Attached Image (viewed 275 times): Last edited on Tue Aug 31st, 2021 02:18 am by Chris A. Campbell |
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| Posted: Tue Aug 31st, 2021 01:42 am |
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14th Post |
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Chris A. Campbell Guest
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Last edited on Tue Aug 31st, 2021 10:51 pm by Chris A. Campbell |
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| Posted: Tue Aug 31st, 2021 01:44 am |
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15th Post |
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Chris A. Campbell Guest
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Last edited on Tue Aug 31st, 2021 10:51 pm by Chris A. Campbell |
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